Minnie 2500FL shower drain to grey tank connection

[bltri]

Hi Everyone,


My shower drain broke clean off at the very top of the grey tank. Has anyone done this repair? I'm trying to figure out how to get the glued ABS pipe out of the top of the grey tank so I can replumb it. My plan is to get a short piece glued into the grey tank, then connect it to the vertical drain piece with a rubber fitting, hoping that will give it some flex while driving and not break off again. I appreciate any advice!


Thank you,


Brett

[Morich]

You've got a tough one if not having the right tools on hand! I've never had those tools so have just had to suffer and do more work to get further back to a point where I could cut the old hub off and replace with new. NOT something that you can do in an RV tank!

Next best is "iffy" at best and takes some real careful work as well as repeair that I'm not fond of doing.

There are tools which can ream the old pipe out of the hub but that is out of the question for one time use with no experience!

As a "do or die" effort, I might go with this?
You have the old pipe, brokaen to fit the broekn part, so they match better than new would. ABS adhesive melts the pipe and the melted portions "glue"/ mix together to seal. It is not a glue as we normally think of glueing wood but a melting process, so we have to think a bit different.
I would look at melting the broken parts back together and then use a sealer like an epoxy to form a ridge around the joint as a second layer.

If you feel a flexible section is needed, I would add it above the broken joint as I see no prectical way to get it added at the break.

[bltri]

Originally Posted by Morich

You've got a tough one if not having the right tools on hand! I've never had those tools so have just had to suffer and do more work to get further back to a point where I could cut the old hub off and replace with new. NOT something that you can do in an RV tank!

Next best is "iffy" at best and takes some real careful work as well as repeair that I'm not fond of doing.

There are tools which can ream the old pipe out of the hub but that is out of the question for one time use with no experience!

As a "do or die" effort, I might go with this?
You have the old pipe, brokaen to fit the broekn part, so they match better than new would. ABS adhesive melts the pipe and the melted portions "glue"/ mix together to seal. It is not a glue as we normally think of glueing wood but a melting process, so we have to think a bit different.
I would look at melting the broken parts back together and then use a sealer like an epoxy to form a ridge around the joint as a second layer.

If you feel a flexible section is needed, I would add it above the broken joint as I see no prectical way to get it added at the break.

Thank you, Morich. Yes, I've seen the reamer tools, but as you said, that's a risky business doing it in the fitting to the tank. I might try your third option, which I hadn't thought of. I'll have to look if the parts fit together well. Solvent weld the crack together, then JB Weld the outside of that. There won't be standing water at that spot (like the trap), so I'd like to "think" it would work. And my plan for the rubber coupler was just that: stub up from the tank a bit, then coupler, then elbow.

[powercat_ras]

Home centers that sell ABS drain pipe and fittings should have an ABS fitting called a HUB DMV Flush Bushing. Since it looks like you have great access to the broken joint and the top of the tank you would drill the opening in the top of the tank and solvent weld the bushing into the top of the tank, then re-do the shower drain. They come in many sizes such as 4 x 2, etc. Your thought about putting a no hub flexible coupling between the shower and the tank is good. You also should look at how the ABS tank is mounted and better secure it, it must be able to move around much more than the design intent for it to break the drain connection, and chances are others may break too if you can't better secure it.

[bigb]

Randy's idea seems the best if you can get a hole saw to cut the old mess out of there and end up with a hole to fit the flanged DWV hub. If that doesn't work you could always cut the old stuff out and fasten something like this to the top https://www.amazon.com/KAITELA-Plast...G1OX4VW74&th=1 with screws and silicone (or plumbing Goop) after cutting the correct size hole and glueing in your flush hub.

[bigb]

Here's another option. These: https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T100...0006MRR9O&th=1 come in different sizes but a 3" will give you enough to cover the old hole once you drill it out, then you can glue a reducing bushing in to fit your pipe which I'm guessing is 1.5"

[bltri]

Originally Posted by bigb

Here's another option. These: https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T100...0006MRR9O&th=1 come in different sizes but a 3" will give you enough to cover the old hole once you drill it out, then you can glue a reducing bushing in to fit your pipe which I'm guessing is 1.5"

Great, thanks Brian. I hadn't thought of either of your ideas.

[bigb]

However you fix it take pics and post back for others in the future who come looking for help.