New water pump and 2 solenoids still not working

[ChadLynn]

Our new to us Winnebago journey DL 36GD purchased January 2024 just started to un-winterizing and solenoids were hot! Evidently the previous owner didn't Shut off by pass switch and winterized switch. We have had it plugged in for 4 months while remodeling flooring and valances. Purchased new pump and new solenoid for bypass and winterized. The plumbing doesn't match directions of the swan push button winterized! Downloads of plumbing schematics don't help and we are at a total loss trying to figure out what hoses are what. We have been trying to get RV mechanic out and he just says keep trying this or that when called on other things! We asked him to come out and apparently he doesn't want the business! We don't know what to do. Lynn

[Morich]

Sounds like a time to take a deep breathe and drop back to basics from the start.
If this is a new RV and you are also new to RV's in general, it has to be a mindbending process. You've gotta feel lost!

But there is a small point to keep in mind. Most all of us have been lost and it rarely kills us! So how about we just start from scratch and work through some of the "starter" points of taking it out of storage and getting it ready?

First points might be that I know very little about that RV and there is little info online that we can look at and figure out where and what you need to change. Seems the online is not yet up for the 2024 year! That's a big handicap as most years have some really good stuff to find the answers. Bummer!

I might suggest breaking it down into smaller parts and move through from easy to harder to get all the valves in the right place?
I think of getting things to hold water and run to all the points as one of the easier if you have a place to connect.
Have you got a water supply to connect the RV? If the water pours out underneath, we may need to look at drains first and get them closed!

Do you have the owners manual and does it lead you to those drain valve locations? If not we can help with some guesses for you to check?

If we can get it to hold water, then we can move to getting that water to flow to each point where you want it.
Once the pressure system works, then it may be time to fill the tank and see that pump work!

Maybe first tell us what you feel you have got done so far and what is giving trouble?

[ChadLynn]

We got water working but 1 Valve drips, we have not got to sanitize the system yet or check if water heater works. But went out to shut windows and pump was running non stop. It's parked in driveway now but if it storms it goes in pole barn. We got a seasonal site but have not made it there yet because we have problems. We have to keep priming the system.

[be happy]

Lets look at why the pump is still running, as we need to narrow down all of the items you are talking about.

First off the pump running comes from it trying to get water and pump to location i.e. faucet. Any opening large or small in the plumbing system will cause the pump to run. That little drip in the value you mentioned will cause the pump to run. The pump most likely has a clear plastic cap with a screen in it. That cap may be loose which would cause the pump to run also. You need to stop that value from dripping also. Just a question, I take it your fresh water tank does have water in it YES?

Can you turn the pump off with one of the switches?

Your first post talked about not knowing where all the plumpig pipes go? Did you get that fixed?

You are going to want to de-winterize with the water heater bypass on. There is no need to de-winterize that, unless you or other owner put antifreeze in the water heater. You would then have to drain and start with fresh water.


One last thing for now, as for de-winterizing near the water pump should be a water line that is capped off. At the other end is a value that diverts the pump action to suck fluid out of a jug. You use this for winterizing and sanitizing your system.

Good luck keep us informed, but lets solve one item at a time.

[Morich]

It sounds like you are not working the question in an organized fashion and that may chase you around for weeks!
Did you start with the pressure water systems and get it solved? Going to try the pump is going to be a waste of time if the pressure side is not correct as there will be leaks in the system.
The basis idea of the pump is that there is a pressure switch which turns it on/off as pressure drops. If there is a place for water to get out or air to get in, the pump can never build enough pressure to fully shut it off. It may run full time if the leaks are large enough or only cycle on/off if there are smaller leaks.

But the more direct way to solve the issue is to first stop the leaks of air or water and get water flowing to each place where we DO want it!

As a small item to note? The pump is a self priming pump. That means if you have to prime it, you do not have the valves or other items correct.

Get that right and the water pump issue becomes far less complex to solve.

[dickb46]

It sounds like you are getting to much "master grade" help when you need a bit lower level help.
Hook up your water hose to the input on your coach and turn the lever to "city fill" that will put pressure on your water system.
Open the relief valve on the hot water tank and then turn on your water hose, keep the relief valve on the hot water tank open until water comes out then close it.
This will allow the water pressure to fill the individual lines, ie the kitchen sink, the bathroom sink, etc.
Open one faucet at a time until the air is replaced with water.
Everyone has to learn this once or twice.
dick

[Morich]

I fully agree with getting pressure water to work first is good but I would not start with the water heater until sure the drains are closed. Once I find I can get water to the faucets, I would work getting water into the tank as a different problem and work the bypass questions.
When unsure and trying to figure new stuff, I like chewing small parts,rather the big ball of confusion!!

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by be happy

Lets look at why the pump is still running, as we need to narrow down all of the items you are talking about.

First off the pump running comes from it trying to get water and pump to location i.e. faucet. Any opening large or small in the plumbing system will cause the pump to run. That little drip in the value you mentioned will cause the pump to run. The pump most likely has a clear plastic cap with a screen in it. That cap may be loose which would cause the pump to run also. You need to stop that value from dripping also. Just a question, I take it your fresh water tank does have water in it YES?

Can you turn the pump off with one of the switches?

Your first post talked about not knowing where all the plumpig pipes go? Did you get that fixed?

You are going to want to de-winterize with the water heater bypass on. There is no need to de-winterize that, unless you or other owner put antifreeze in the water heater. You would then have to drain and start with fresh water.


One last thing for now, as for de-winterizing near the water pump should be a water line that is capped off. At the other end is a value that diverts the pump action to suck fluid out of a jug. You use this for winterizing and sanitizing your system.

Good luck keep us informed, but lets solve one item at a time.

That is not how those of us with the Swan Industries automatic winterizing system operate.
It has an onboard 2G RV antifreeze holding tank, with 2 12V solenoid-operated valves, one valve is the antifreeze tank, the other is for WH bypass.

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by ChadLynn

Our new to us Winnebago journey DL 36GD purchased January 2024 just started to un-winterizing and solenoids were hot! Evidently the previous owner didn't Shut off by pass switch and winterized switch. We have had it plugged in for 4 months while remodeling flooring and valances. Purchased new pump and new solenoid for bypass and winterized. The plumbing doesn't match directions of the swan push button winterized! Downloads of plumbing schematics don't help and we are at a total loss trying to figure out what hoses are what. We have been trying to get RV mechanic out and he just says keep trying this or that when called on other things! We asked him to come out and apparently he doesn't want the business! We don't know what to do. Lynn

Do you have your Swan Industries winterizing manual? It should be in the owners satchel.
Our actual valves can be rebuilt with common hardware store stuff.

Here is the Swan Industries page where you can order new electric valves, or if you wish, order new manual 2-way valves for your Swan system.
https://swanindustries.com/collectio...ustomer?page=3

[Ray,IN]

Originally Posted by Ray,IN

Do you have your Swan Industries winterizing manual? It should be in the owners satchel.
Our actual valves can be rebuilt with common hardware store stuff.

Here is the Swan Industries page where you can order new electric valves, or if you wish, order new manual 2-way valves for your Swan system.
https://swanindustries.com/collectio...ustomer?page=3

Does your Swan switch panel look like this?
If you don't have it, here is the owners manual for a 2003Journey