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Old 07-18-2024, 05:03 AM   #1
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No hot water 2002 Adventurer 35U

A plumbing dilemma on my 2002 Adventurer 35U. First, this is a new motorhome to us. Still going through it so I understand as much as possible prior to taking it on the road. (Still using our 97 Brave). Everything I've done in filling the tanks has been according to instructions from the manual, but I cannot get water out of the hot water tank to the faucets. The hot water heater tank appears to be full and has heated up, but nothing comes out of the faucets when they're turned on. Both water valves are in the Normal operation mode. Makes no difference if I use City water or internal water tank. No hot water. Of course, during water tank use, I have the water pump On. If I change the valve “water heater bypass”, water will come through both sides of the faucets, but it will still be only cold water. It's as if they're a hot water heater valve that I've missed somewhere, but the Winnie manual shows only the valves in the compartment adjacent to the water heater. I can get water to come out of both the hot and cold faucets is when the water source is City Fill, the water pump on and and the water heater by-pass is selected. As soon as I go from by-pass to normal operation, only the cold water comes out of the taps.

One other question: The manual mentions straps to secure the slides while driving. I have not located any straps or anywhere they would be secured to in the floor. Is this a safety requirement for all Winnies with slides or is it a manual misprint?
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Old 07-18-2024, 05:56 AM   #2
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DavidVanDer-

The most common cause for not getting any hot water out of the heater is the check valve on the tank outlet is stuck closed.

You need maintenance (hand, arm, elbow and eye) access to the rear of the heater, especially the area around the outlet (upper half of the tank) to replace the check valve. Make sure the tank is empty and cold before starting the work.
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Old 07-18-2024, 07:13 AM   #3
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Having owned RVs for the last 30 years, it seemed that something like a valve wasn't opening. I've replaced water heaters before, but never noticed a valve at the rear of the unit. Getting access to it in this Adventurer looks more difficult than my Brave. It's totally enclosed, but I'm sure with some effort and I'll gain access. Thank you for your help.
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Old 07-18-2024, 07:22 AM   #4
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As to the slides of Winnebago motorhomes, I don’t know about 22-years ago but this is not something on my 2017 Adventurer 37F. I have 3-slides. One of the passenger side slides does have an electric slide lock feature. The full-wall slide and smaller bedroom slide do not have any locks.

I stopped using the electric lock because many have reported that it sometimes fails and then you can’t open the slide. There’s never been a problem with not locking the slide on my motorhome.
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Old 07-18-2024, 07:51 AM   #5
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New Rv? Sounds like time to point to some of the good info we have online!
It makes good reading when we have down time!
Winn home site as starter place and then under the "owners" tab to get to lots of other info:
https://www.winnebago.com/

You can get plumbing, parts, and electrical as well as manuals!
Plumbing:
https://www.winnebago.com/Files/File...m/Plumbing.htm


But what I see is there apears to be check valve (V-6) both in and out?
Cold always goes in bottom, so seems okay but top on hot out is stuck, gunked up, etc.?
Wonder if one could force it loose by running some compressed air into the line? Forcing it "backwards from the normal flow? Never done it and no idea but I do hear taking the heater out is a trek, so I might think it worth the effort?
click this snip to get a better view or go direct for more info!
Best of luck to you on the bug hunt!
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Why no RV year, make and floorplan on MY signature as we suggest for others?
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Old 07-18-2024, 08:57 AM   #6
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Thanks Morich. Appreciate that info.
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Old 07-18-2024, 09:06 AM   #7
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If I think about it a bit, there is a vauge (flaky?) memory of somebody being able to reach behind one of these rather than remove?
I seem to remember there is a problem getting the heater out as it has plumbing lines on the back? Seems like it would be true!
So if it gets way bad, one might want to look at removing a metal panel on the side of the heater to allow really cramped/tight space to work behind it?

Never done it/ No experience but something that stuck in memory!!!
Maybe totally bogus idea!
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Old 07-18-2024, 07:56 PM   #8
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Winnebago used to install a check valve on cold inlet and hot outlet. It should look like a brass extension.
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Old 07-20-2024, 05:38 PM   #9
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OK, I finally got it! Was about to contort myself into a pretzel and remove that upper hot water valve for cleaning when I discovered one more on/off valve in the hot water line and voila!! A simple turn of the valve and I now have HOT WATER!! Thank you all for your expertise and advice. You all led me in the proper direction. I went back to my manual and see no mention of this valve, but I have clearly marked it with a sticker that can't be missed once my travelling is done and someone else will be enjoying the rig. Thank you all once again. You'll probably be hearing from me again with some other dumb question, but hey, it's always fun to be reminded that even with over 30 years motorhoming, I can still come up with some pretty simple problems. Tikk the next one...........
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Old 07-20-2024, 06:40 PM   #10
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Congrats on keeping looking and checking before doing the hard way.

I'm a big fan of online chess as it tends to remind me to check carefully before making the big leap!
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Old 07-24-2024, 05:55 PM   #11
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Lock slides with reverseable clamps.

The backflow valve frequently gets stuck open. Someone might have put a valve on the the output to fix that so look around and see if there is an extra valve.

I recommend locking slides with reverseable clamps from a hardware store if possible. The dynamic load on the slide during driving is high so if you can clamp it tight against the wall it will take a lot of stress off of the mechanism that moves the slide.

Use the clamp in reverse mode on the inside between the wall and the inside flange. Place 2x4 wood blocks as appropriate to distribute load. Clamp firmly but don't go crazy. Remember to remove before deployment. A red streamer hanging from the slide or blue tape labeled with remove clamps over the switch will help at the beginning and when ever it goes in for service.
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Old 07-25-2024, 04:38 AM   #12
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No other valves were found, but thanks for that tip. Happy to say the water's nice and hot and flowing like crazy. Could you give me a bit more info on those reversible clamps, like specifically what they look like and where they would go. I saw something on Amazon called Anndason Hand Tool Toggle Latch Clamps, but they look a bit small and I can't envision where they would attach to the slides. Appreciate your help..
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Old 07-26-2024, 03:35 AM   #13
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Any hardware store.
Here is a home Depot link
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-M...gs-and-reviews
The small end comes off and swaps to the other end facing out when you squeeze the trigger it spreads instead of clamping.
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Old 07-26-2024, 07:08 AM   #14
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That is pretty much just the name brand bar clamp but another way that many use when wondering about the slide moving during travel is listed in some of the books.

Just a piece or two of 2X4 laid on the top of the slide when in is good enough. Cut to the right length and lay between the outside wall and the lip of the slide when in. If a bit of "press fit" the pressure keeps it in place.
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Old 07-26-2024, 07:24 AM   #15
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Great advice folks. That should work great. Appreciate your posts.
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Old 07-27-2024, 12:36 AM   #16
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Where you put the camps depends upon how the slide is implemented

One of our sides tends to come out at the top because it has very robust hardware at the bottom.

THe full wall slide tends to come out at the bottom because it has in wall slide mechanisms that tend to come out at the bottom.

It is my opinion that the lack of good locking is a big contributer to in wall slide problems. That and a failure to keep the slide rollers and mechanism clean and lubricated. Well that and the fact its a huge compromise and probably a mistake to sell such a thing to the general public.

We haven't had any problems but I've been very diligent with keeping every clean and using the clamps.
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