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Old 10-31-2016, 12:28 AM   #21
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Texas
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MEL S - Well, I suppose we do indeed have a different problem, but I'm at a loss as to how to correct it.

We're open to any suggestions or avenues of investigation.

Thank, all.
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Butch and Peggy
N.Central TX; 2000 Itasca Suncruiser 32V;Workhorse P-32 Chassis; Chevy Vortec 454 L21 w/Banks Pwr Sys; Ultra-Power ECM; SteerSafe; Timbren Suspension kit rear; Onan Emerald 5K
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Old 10-31-2016, 07:56 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peggwn View Post
MEL S - Well, I suppose we do indeed have a different problem, but I'm at a loss as to how to correct it.
We're open to any suggestions or avenues of investigation.
Thank, all.
peggwn
You may find your answer in message #2, #4 and/or #5 here:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/atwoo...ml#post3313892
Good luck.
Mel
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Old 11-01-2016, 03:25 PM   #23
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Carlisle, Ohio
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2004 Adventurer 35 U - The back flow preventer (check valve) on the outlet side of my water heater malfunctioned resulting in no hot water flow. I could get to the back flow, but i could not remove and replace without removing the water heater. The inside of the back flow was plastic and the plastic was deteriorated. I pulled the plastic out of the inside, then I put an in-line pex valve in the line prior to the check. This way I can manually close the valve to prevent the anti-freeze from entering the HW tank when winterizing. Doesn't address the hot water mixing with cold, but none of WHs in my TTs had back flows, and used a 3 valve by-pass to winterize. It was my understanding that the back flows are required when a one valve by-pass is used for winterizing. So far the cold is cold and the hot is hot.
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