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08-30-2005, 06:39 PM
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#1
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iRV2 Marketing
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 886
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I have heard of this happening to others but this is my first time. I am planning on having an RV Tech at Ocean Lakes replace the rubber in the ball valve.
Is this a shade tree mechanic type project? I don't mind paying but then again I don't mind learning.
Thanks.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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08-30-2005, 06:39 PM
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#2
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iRV2 Marketing
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 886
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I have heard of this happening to others but this is my first time. I am planning on having an RV Tech at Ocean Lakes replace the rubber in the ball valve.
Is this a shade tree mechanic type project? I don't mind paying but then again I don't mind learning.
Thanks.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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08-30-2005, 07:01 PM
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#3
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 409
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I had the same problem DriVer so I had it repaired under warranty. It now leaks again so I'll probably just replace the whole toilet.
In the meantime, this is available for emergencies. http://www.bumperdumper.com/
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DonavonP
2016 Jayco White Hawk 27dsrl
2015 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 diesel 4x4
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08-30-2005, 08:10 PM
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#4
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iRV2 Marketing
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 886
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DonavonP:
In the meantime, this is available for emergencies. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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08-31-2005, 03:24 AM
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#5
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Springboro, OH, USA
Posts: 14
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The first thing the techs will do is use one of the cleaning kits for the ring. Sometimes a small amount of crud on the bottom of the ring will allow slow drainage. If you have one of the models with the ball valve you may have the problem we had. We asked the manufacturer's design engineer to look at it while we were at the GNR 2 years ago. The engineer discovered that there was a quality control issue with our model. There was excess material on the bottom of the bowl where it meets the base and the alignment pin caused the bowl to be slightly off center. This allowed the water to slowly drain away. You should be able to see the same amount of ring (centered) around the ball valve.
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John & Betty
2002 Winnebago Brave 34D Ford V10
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08-31-2005, 04:46 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Newmarket, Ont
Posts: 48
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:Is this a shade tree mechanic type project? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
If it's a Sealand toilet, then it's just a matter of removing a couple of screws; and cleaning lime deposits from the teflon seals. Sometimes the deposits can be removed by merely pouring vinegar into the bowl and letting it leak down before working the valve.
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08-31-2005, 06:19 AM
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#7
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Duncan, Okla
Posts: 56
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We have a SeaLand toilet and it does this sometimes....In our instruction bag of things,,we had a tool for cleaning the seal...Have done this twice over 3 years and no more problem once its done...You just sorta move it around the ball and seal in the commode and it cleans any goop off it....
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02 UA
Malibu Toad
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08-31-2005, 12:00 PM
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#8
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Winnebago Master
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 629
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DriVer, is it just a problem with water leaking out for seal to tank or is it water leaking on to floor. If its a Sealand you have a steel band around the mid point of toilet that may have lossened up an needs to be tighten or four bolts to floor flange have come loose an need to be tighten up. If you look down the hole an see a half moon of toilet paper you have another problem your 3" pipe has dropped an water is passing thru an into your compartment below. This will require removing toilet, glueing pipe to floor flange after pulling up pipe from tank, new floor seal, and remounting toilet to flange. During trip to Canada had this happen and when I bought the coach had to repair two toilets before camping trip in order to use it. Your handy should pose no problem for you just a little smelly. "007"
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08-31-2005, 02:15 PM
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#9
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Southwest Ohio
Posts: 7
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If it is a Sealand unit, just replace the seal. You can order one from the manufacturer or many RV dealers stock them. All the Sealand units use the same seal. The manufacturer has different distribution centers across the US so you can call the one for your area. The info is in the documentation that came with your RV. I would look it up for you but my suitcase is in the RV which is parked about 30 miles away.
The seal is not cheap - about $30 as I recall, but it is a 30 minute job to replace it. The seal comes with instructions.
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08-31-2005, 05:41 PM
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#10
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Winnebago Owner
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 56
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Driver, I had the same problem with mine. An old timmer in Fla gave me a fix. After flushing if I lifted on the foot lever it would close tight and not leak. Put on a pair of rubber gloves and took a load of vaseline and lubed the slide it now closes smoothy and completely. Vet Man
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2008 Itasca 35A
2008 Honda CRV
2010 Chevy Colorado 4x4
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08-31-2005, 06:30 PM
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#11
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Winnie-Wise
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Crossville, TN USA
Posts: 397
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I ordered the part last week for my crappy Sealand Traveler. Ball valve seal and floor seal. $48.50 shipping and handling incliuded. Will do repair next week when I get to a nice level site. Next time it leaks. Thetford is going in.
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Tom & Bonnie
2008 Winnebago Aspect 29H
A Class C Not a B+
2010 Ford Flex
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08-31-2005, 06:36 PM
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#12
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iRV2 Marketing
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 886
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Thank you one and all! You guys are the best.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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08-31-2005, 07:00 PM
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#13
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Rock Hill, SC
Posts: 5
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I just had the same problem on a SeaLand model 510. I removed the base cover, removed the steel band, lifted the bowl and throughly cleaned the seal of all crud. Then I put everything back, tightened it up and put water in the bowl. That was a week ago and the water level is still the same. It's a pretty simple job.
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Glen & Eleanor
'97 Pace Arrow 36S
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09-01-2005, 02:53 AM
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#14
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iRV2 Marketing
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 886
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Glnele:
That was a week ago and the water level is still the same. It's a pretty simple job. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I have a SeaLand as well. I'm going to give it a shot later this morning.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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09-01-2005, 06:07 PM
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#15
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iRV2 Marketing
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 886
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I just bought SeaLand Flush Ball & Bowl Seal Kit at CW today. It consists of 2 - 40 dollar rubber disks. Give me a very large break PLEASE!
Kit # 385316140
The vacuum break, it that going to be a pain to R&R?
PS: Should I take pictures? In "Smell-Around"
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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10-21-2005, 08:42 PM
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#16
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Winnebago Camper
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 23
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I know this is a little late,but... We had the same problem and according to the Sealand manual if you spray Pam on and around the ball valve seal this will solve the problem. And it works. You don't have to touch anything and as long as the wife doesn't know about it you won't get killed. It has been about 3-4 months and ours is as watertight as they come. It's cheap and easy so if it's not too late give it a try.
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