Water running back out my hose reel

McDuff · 04-13-2011, 10:17 AM

We were NASCAR camping and my water pump was periodically coming on for a few seconds then off again. Was scratching my head. Then we prematurely ran out of water. When I opened the water compartment, it was soaked and I could see water dripping out the hose. Luckily I had left one of the compartment screw caps loose so it all drained out rather than filling the compartment. When we refilled I watched and water would come back, at more than a trickle, so we switched pump on/off for rest of weekend, but we still lost a lot.

I'm guessing my valve controlled by the "city water" "fill tank" switch is shot.

My coach has the attached hose with reel, and a separate water hookup on the panel for water filling. I guess the switch operates a valve that works for both sources?

Anybody know how deep in the bowels this may be located?

cbeierl · 04-13-2011, 11:23 AM

If you'll look at page 8 of the pdf of your Plumbing Diagram for your coach you'll see that there should be a check valve (labeled 'V-6') between the hose reel and the rest of the plumbing (right up behind the water panel). I suspect that this valve has failed, allowing water back out of the hose. A temporary fix until you can get the valve replaced would be to cap the end of the hose, just like the panel inlet fitting is capped. (Actually, it would be good to have a cap on the hose anyway, as mine does, to keep out dirt, bugs, etc.)

The valve that switches between city water and fill tank is right behind that panel as well, but I don't think that's the problem.

[Note: You'll probably need to zoom in to 200% or more to be able to see the details in the drawings.]

McDuff · 04-13-2011, 12:08 PM

Thanks Chris,

That seems logical. I assume "V" is for valve, if so, I wonder why there is not one needed/shown to be inline with the other tank fill spigot spot?

I had a pressure reducer on the end of hose and cap wouldn't reach around it. I took it off and screwed cap on, but it must be too chewed up because it slowed the flow down but did not stop it.

cbeierl · 04-13-2011, 12:15 PM

The water inlet in the panel has an integral check valve (you can see the little nipple sticking out in the center of the fitting).

McDuff · 04-13-2011, 12:33 PM

Ahhh, the lightbulb goes on. thanks.

skigramp · 04-13-2011, 11:45 PM

As a work around ... buy a male plug at Home Depot or Lowes

AFChap · 04-14-2011, 07:24 PM

McDuff ...I used a male plug for awhile, and then a few months ago bought a brass check valve and two hose clamps and cut the hose between the hose reel and where it goes upward and disappears right beside the reel to the right. I installed the new check valve at that point. That stopped the dribbling. Now in the past month there has started to be a bit of a humming noise whenever we run water ...I suspect that original check valve is the noise maker. Maybe one day it will shut down on me???

David K · 04-14-2011, 09:03 PM

I have had the check valve where the shore water connects to go bad on me --- it frustrates the *&^(* out of you. -- it allows water to come back out of the lines and it also prevents you from filling the on board tank and prevents the shore water from going to the coach (a tripple whammy). In my case, was able to finally get to the valve, unscrew it and fix. I now carry a spare with me at all times -- bought from the Winny store when I visited one day -- I think I paid $10.00 for the fitting, valve -- the whole assembly.

McDuff · 04-15-2011, 09:14 AM

AFChap - from what David wrote, it appears that that could be the case, yowsers. Guess it's a fine line between keeping things looking good by hiding components, and making them easier to work on.

I think I'll go grab a male plug, I have one more short trip planned, then I will have time to study how these panels come off. I have some rust runs in them anyway, if I have to yank them, maybe I'll get 'em repainted too. Man, then I need new labels too, man it's neverending is it?