Wife Cut Toe on 26A Shower Drain

JimGeorgia · 09-21-2015, 07:49 PM

Potential Safety Alert - Brave 26A

I wanted to alert those of you with new Braves regarding a potential safety issue with the shower drain. We have a 26 A (2015) and this weekend my wife cut her toe when it slid across the drain. The photos don't do this justice but the silver edge around the drain is not totally flush with the fiberglass and is not beveled, therefore it's basically almost a stainless steel knife. I'd ask that our other 26A owners check their coaches to see if this is a manufacturing issue or just with our coach. The drain is located in the corner of the shower and under normal circumstances your foot would not come in contact with it, but Sandra has a bandaged big toe where it hit the edge of the drain. Please check and advise before I address this with WBGO. Thanks. I'm going to apply silicone around the edges this week, but wanted to take these photos before doing so.

MrsChilerick · 09-21-2015, 08:06 PM

Our 2012 sightseer had the same problem. We had the dealer modify it, now it sits down nicely in the drain. It's a pretty "cheap" drain cover, we'll replace it eventually.

gmanatl · 09-22-2015, 02:32 AM

Are you going to remove the blue plastic cover before you silicone it?

JimGeorgia · 09-22-2015, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmanatl

Are you going to remove the blue plastic cover before you silicone it?

The blue cover is held down by the screw and is flush and not a problem. Having said that, I'm not sure why I would need to. I was simply going to caulk around the edges of the silver part. If I'm missing something, please let me know.

Thanks for the question.

gmanatl · 09-22-2015, 01:08 PM

I was kidding you. The blue plastic is supposed to come off. It is only on there to prevent scratches. You really peel it off so the stainless steel shows.

FIRE UP · 09-22-2015, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimGeorgia

The blue cover is held down by the screw and is flush and not a problem. Having said that, I'm not sure why I would need to. I was simply going to caulk around the edges of the silver part. If I'm missing something, please let me know.

Thanks for the question.

Jim,
I'm thinking there's a tad bit of mis-communication here. One, the "blue", if I'm not mistaken here, is a celephane coating, that covers the perforated center drain. It can be peeled off to reveal a shiny, stainless, perforated cover.
And, there would be no need to caulk around it and, the stainless ring, it resides in. That needs to be removable for periodic cleaning of hair etc.

And, if, as suggested, I would caulk around the outer perimeter of the edge (that cut the DWs foot) with some clear silicone. I'd finger it in, so it would "JUST" barely cover the sharp edge but, not DAM up and therefore refrain from water draining properly. Silicone would provide a good enough cushion and protect against further mishaps.

BeachDude · 09-22-2015, 01:20 PM

Do you have access to the drain pipe from underneath?

The stainless edge appears to be cocked to one side, indicating that it was installed a little crooked before it was tightened down from underneath. It probably does not even have plumbers putty properly applied, (I don't see any).

It simply needs to be tightened, (or loosened, and re-installed properly). This same thing happens with residential showers as well. It's like installing a mandolin slicer if the drain pipe is not correctly seated before it's tightened.

winnie32v · 09-23-2015, 05:02 AM

Somewhere in the hallway outside of the shower unit there should be a wall 'vent cover' or some other removable cover that will allow access to the drain.
My suggestion: Remove the drain, reset the drain in plumber's putty and ensure it is recessed so the outer edge is no longer a safety hazard.
Shouldn't be that big of a job with a newer unit.
Let us know how you finally end up in solving this problem.
Thanks.

JimGeorgia · 09-23-2015, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winnie32v

Somewhere in the hallway outside of the shower unit there should be a wall 'vent cover' or some other removable cover that will allow access to the drain.
My suggestion: Remove the drain, reset the drain in plumber's putty and ensure it is recessed so the outer edge is no longer a safety hazard.
Shouldn't be that big of a job with a newer unit.
Let us know how you finally end up in solving this problem.
Thanks.

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll certainly check on it. That's why this is such a great forum.

PbdBlue · 09-24-2015, 09:23 PM

Why not Just take a file and smooth the edge of the perforated cover? It's stainless so filing it will not compromise the rust proofing characteristics. 5 minutes and your done.

FIRE UP · 09-25-2015, 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PbdBlue

Why not Just take a file and smooth the edge of the perforated cover? It's stainless so filing it will not compromise the rust proofing characteristics. 5 minutes and your done.

The "Perforated cover" is not the problem. It's the outer support ring, against the floor material that's his issue. It would be pretty hard to get even a small file on that, while it's mounted in the floor. If filing was the answer, you'd have to remove the entire drain to get at that edge appropriately.
Scott