2016 38Q Residential Fridge Winterizing?

[rk911]

this is our 3rd Winnebago Motorhome since we started RVing in 1985 but our first with a residential fridge. I'm preparing to winterize the rig and would like to hear some real-world experiences with the fridge.

I use the pink anti-freeze method. I spoke with a tech at Winnebago yesterday concerning winterizing the fridge. his advice, which is echoed in the owner's manual, is to simply isolate the fridge by shutting off the main water valve to the fridge under the sink, pull the fridge water filter and install the diverter plug, open the needle valve drain line in the exterior access panel to drain (and to leave it open all winter) and to let the ice maker run for 24-36 hours until no more ice is made. that's it. he said we could add the pink stuff if we want but it's not necessary. he specifically said NOT to use compressed air to clear the lines on the fridge.

comments? it seems counter-intuitive to me to NOT use the pink stuff even with the hassle of running 3-4 batches of ice in the spring to clear out the pink stuff.

[Jupiter]

Hi Rich,

This was my experience winterizing the residential fridge in our previous coach (2013 Journey 36M). First winter I followed the instructions as you stated. When I later de-winterized I found the water solenoid behind the fridge had trapped or collected enough moisture to freeze and split the plastic housing. Prior to that winter I had ALWAYS purged everything (including ice makers) with the pink stuff and never had a problem. The following winter I went back to purging pink stuff into the ice maker. De-winterizing simply meant running 3 or 4 batches of ice to clear the pink.

That was just my experience and it set the tone for how I since winterize. I'm sure others have experienced success simply draining and/or purging with air.

As an aside, this week when I winterized our new coach (2016 Journey 38P), I found that the water line behind the fridge was never actually connected to the fridge! Just has the water line and shutoff valve with no piping from the valve to the fridge solenoid. While that certainly simplified winterizing, it leaves me with another punch list item on my springtime "to-do" list.

I do pull the filters and plug in the diverters when purging with pink. I put new filters in each Spring.

cheers,
Joopy

[rk911]

Originally Posted by Jupiter

Hi Rich,

This was my experience winterizing the residential fridge in our previous coach (2013 Journey 36M). First winter I followed the instructions as you stated. When I later de-winterized I found the water solenoid behind the fridge had trapped or collected enough moisture to freeze and split the plastic housing. Prior to that winter I had ALWAYS purged everything (including ice makers) with the pink stuff and never had a problem. The following winter I went back to purging pink stuff into the ice maker. De-winterizing simply meant running 3 or 4 batches of ice to clear the pink.

That was just my experience and it set the tone for how I since winterize. I'm sure others have experienced success simply draining and/or purging with air.

As an aside, this week when I winterized our new coach (2016 Journey 38P), I found that the water line behind the fridge was never actually connected to the fridge! Just has the water line and shutoff valve with no piping from the valve to the fridge solenoid. While that certainly simplified winterizing, it leaves me with another punch list item on my springtime "to-do" list.

I do pull the filters and plug in the diverters when purging with pink. I put new filters in each Spring.

cheers,
Joopy

thanks for the info, Joopy. I've held off running the pink stuff through the lines because I'm skeptical that simply draining the lines and running the ice maker till empty is sufficient. the tech at Winnebago was pretty emphatic that I'd be OK but there's a nagging voice in my head that begs to differ with him.

it easy to tell when the lines are winterized with the pink stuff by opening faucets. how do you know when the ice maker is protected? will pink drip into the ice tray???

[Dfreiberger]

Originally Posted by rk911

thanks for the info, Joopy. I've held off running the pink stuff through the lines because I'm skeptical that simply draining the lines and running the ice maker till empty is sufficient. the tech at Winnebago was pretty emphatic that I'd be OK but there's a nagging voice in my head that begs to differ with him.

it easy to tell when the lines are winterized with the pink stuff by opening faucets. how do you know when the ice maker is protected? will pink drip into the ice tray???

Hello Rich. I bought my new coach with a residential and my dealer performed the first winterizing. He removed the water filters and cracked the tee behind the fridge through the external door. This allowed water to gravity drain out of the water line from the ice maker. Then pumped pink throughout. He then ran the water dispenser until pink flowed. This also pushed pink into the ice maker. Come spring, de-winterize, flush water through all lines, the water dispenser, turn on the ice maker until it cycles clear ice. Then add the filters. Should all be good.

[rk911]

Originally Posted by Dfreiberger

Hello Rich. I bought my new coach with a residential and my dealer performed the first winterizing. He removed the water filters and cracked the tee behind the fridge through the external door. This allowed water to gravity drain out of the water line from the ice maker. Then pumped pink throughout. He then ran the water dispenser until pink flowed. This also pushed pink into the ice maker. Come spring, de-winterize, flush water through all lines, the water dispenser, turn on the ice maker until it cycles clear ice. Then add the filters. Should all be good.

thanks, Dutch. I presume that the dealer closed the drain tee before pushing the pink stuff. I didn't think to use the water dispenser to judge when the pink stuff was in the ice maker. great idea.

since I posted this thread there's been a flag on the play. when I pumped the pink stuff thru the lines I discovered a large portion of it was dripping from the front edge of the street side front slide out (the one with the fireplace). we had a water leak there before heading out on our fall trip which the dealer fixed as we had no further leaking during the trip. it's going back to the dealer today.

as a side note the service mgr mentioned that he's never seen a water line extend from the kitchen sink to back behind the fireplace and then back to the fridge. he said all the others he's seen go straight from the sink to the fridge and he has no idea why the factory routed the line that way. this is our 3rd Winnebago product since we started RVing in 1986 and I've got to say I'm disappointed in the lack of fit and finish in the 38Q. I'm confident all of the items on my squak list will be addressed...but that's for another thread.

[Dfreiberger]

Originally Posted by rk911

thanks, Dutch. I presume that the dealer closed the drain tee before pushing the pink stuff. I didn't think to use the water dispenser to judge when the pink stuff was in the ice maker. great idea.

since I posted this thread there's been a flag on the play. when I pumped the pink stuff thru the lines I discovered a large portion of it was dripping from the front edge of the street side front slide out (the one with the fireplace). we had a water leak there before heading out on our fall trip which the dealer fixed as we had no further leaking during the trip. it's going back to the dealer today.

as a side note the service mgr mentioned that he's never seen a water line extend from the kitchen sink to back behind the fireplace and then back to the fridge. he said all the others he's seen go straight from the sink to the fridge and he has no idea why the factory routed the line that way. this is our 3rd Winnebago product since we started RVing in 1986 and I've got to say I'm disappointed in the lack of fit and finish in the 38Q. I'm confident all of the items on my squak list will be addressed...but that's for another thread.

Unfortunately, I do not have the T fitting you have since mine was an earlier year model. However, I do have a union installed behind the external panel that I can disconnect. As per my owners manual, is states to disconnect the union and blow out the water by applying about 40 PSI to the water line going into the fridge and pushing the water through the water dispenser. You can not solely rely on opening the T and letting it gravity drain out because you will not get all the water out. The water line goes into the fridge and coils inside so that it will hold sufficient water to cool; it will never drain out of the coiled line. That is why they want you to blow it out. Nor does it get the water out of your ice maker. That is why they ask you to cycle the ice maker until no ice comes out.
With that said, two options exist:
1. Leave all lines connected and push antifreeze through the water dispenser. This will also pump antifreeze into the icemaker while the ice maker is on. Come spring, connect water to the coach and flush it all out before you install your filters. also run a couple of ice trays until clear. This is how the dealer did mine last year.
2. Or, shut off water to the fridge from under your Galley sink. Run the ice maker until no ice comes out. Disconnect the line at the T and blow water through the water dispenser. Then with the line still disconnected, open the shutoff under the Galley sink. Make sure the fridge waterline is hanging outside the coach and push antifreeze through the line. Once antifreeze comes through the line, you can reconnect it to the T to keep it from leaking in the coach. Come spring, disconnect the line from the T and push water through it to purge it. Reconnect the line to the fridge and run water through the water dispenser to get the air out and little residual left behind. Install filter and you should be good to go.

Regarding your water line leak for the fridge. Awfully coincidental. I had the same leak when the dealer did my PDI. He said the line got pinched under the galley sink and had to run a new line. He connected new tubing to the bad line and pulled it through under the floor following the original routing which goes forward and into the harness track which is part of the driver side slide out forward slide arm. Then it goes into the slide and along the wall to the fridge. Not sure why they manufactured it this way; just the way it is I guess. I see future line problems due to the amount of bending and rubbing when the slide is run in and out. Hope this helps.

One last thing. Is it possible to get a picture of your T plumbing from the exterior door?

Dutch

[rk911]

Originally Posted by Dfreiberger

Unfortunately, I do not have the T fitting you have since mine was an earlier year model. However, I do have a union installed behind the external panel that I can disconnect. As per my owners manual, is states to disconnect the union and blow out the water by applying about 40 PSI to the water line going into the fridge and pushing the water through the water dispenser. You can not solely rely on opening the T and letting it gravity drain out because you will not get all the water out. The water line goes into the fridge and coils inside so that it will hold sufficient water to cool; it will never drain out of the coiled line. That is why they want you to blow it out. Nor does it get the water out of your ice maker. That is why they ask you to cycle the ice maker until no ice comes out.
With that said, two options exist:
1. Leave all lines connected and push antifreeze through the water dispenser. This will also pump antifreeze into the icemaker while the ice maker is on. Come spring, connect water to the coach and flush it all out before you install your filters. also run a couple of ice trays until clear. This is how the dealer did mine last year.
2. Or, shut off water to the fridge from under your Galley sink. Run the ice maker until no ice comes out. Disconnect the line at the T and blow water through the water dispenser. Then with the line still disconnected, open the shutoff under the Galley sink. Make sure the fridge waterline is hanging outside the coach and push antifreeze through the line. Once antifreeze comes through the line, you can reconnect it to the T to keep it from leaking in the coach. Come spring, disconnect the line from the T and push water through it to purge it. Reconnect the line to the fridge and run water through the water dispenser to get the air out and little residual left behind. Install filter and you should be good to go.

Regarding your water line leak for the fridge. Awfully coincidental. I had the same leak when the dealer did my PDI. He said the line got pinched under the galley sink and had to run a new line. He connected new tubing to the bad line and pulled it through under the floor following the original routing which goes forward and into the harness track which is part of the driver side slide out forward slide arm. Then it goes into the slide and along the wall to the fridge. Not sure why they manufactured it this way; just the way it is I guess. I see future line problems due to the amount of bending and rubbing when the slide is run in and out. Hope this helps.

One last thing. Is it possible to get a picture of your T plumbing from the exterior door?

Dutch

Dutch,

A couple of things.

First, my owner's manual simply says to drain the water from the fridge in order to winterize it. the dealer recommended using anti-freeze, my buddy prefers to blow out the lines and I had various recommendations from this and other forums. I 've been winterizing our RVs since 1986 and have always used anti-freeze but this is our first experience with a residential fridge and I wanted to get this right.

I called Winnebago and spoke with a tech there. he specifically said NOT to blow out the lines to the fridge with air as that would damage the fridge. he assured me that the fridge would be fine simply by draining the water lines and running the ice maker until no ice was made. it was tempting to do that but I ultimately decided to be safe and use the anti-freeze.

When we were preparing for our trip I loaded the fresh water tank and ensured that all of the faucets, the stool and fridge were working properly in terms of water. filtered water was available in the fridge and ice was being made. the water pressure at the kitchen sink and in the fridge was lower than I would have expected but I chalked that up to an OEM water pump that I was going to replace anyway. With the lines pressurized I soon discovered that I had a leak somewhere as the carpeting by the fireplace was soaked. back to the dealer we go.

he discovered and repaired two leaks under the kitchen sink. one to the water line leading to the kitchen faucet and the other at the shut off valve for the fridge. he said the leaks were behind the 'wall' under the sink and that the water migrated under the floor to the carpeted area by the fireplace. using a wet vac he sucked up the excess water from the carpet and I set up a fan there to help dry that area.

long story short, after several days the carpeting was not drying so back to the dealer. upon examination of the wet carpet he had a tech investigate and discover yet another leak he said was behind the fireplace. the service mgr said he did not know why the water lines were routed that way but that leak was fixed and we had no further problem during our trip. no further problem that is until I pumped pink antifreeze through the system the other day.

prior to pumping the anti-freeze I emptied the fresh and hot water tanks, removed both water filters (under sink and in the fridge), installed the diverter plugs, opened each faucet (and toilet) one by one to drain whatever was there, then opened all of the drain valves to drain whatever was there. then I closed the faucets and the line drains and by-passed the water heater. since I was going to pump into the fridge the shut off valve under the sink remained open. while pumping 2.5 gallons of pink stuff I discovered the leak pouring out of the front edge of the front street side slide (slide was open).

the MH is going back to the dealer today. a photo of the fridge's drain valve is below.

[Dfreiberger]

Originally Posted by rk911

Dutch,

A couple of things.

First, my owner's manual simply says to drain the water from the fridge in order to winterize it. the dealer recommended using anti-freeze, my buddy prefers to blow out the lines and I had various recommendations from this and other forums. I 've been winterizing our RVs since 1986 and have always used anti-freeze but this is our first experience with a residential fridge and I wanted to get this right.

I called Winnebago and spoke with a tech there. he specifically said NOT to blow out the lines to the fridge with air as that would damage the fridge. he assured me that the fridge would be fine simply by draining the water lines and running the ice maker until no ice was made. it was tempting to do that but I ultimately decided to be safe and use the anti-freeze.

When we were preparing for our trip I loaded the fresh water tank and ensured that all of the faucets, the stool and fridge were working properly in terms of water. filtered water was available in the fridge and ice was being made. the water pressure at the kitchen sink and in the fridge was lower than I would have expected but I chalked that up to an OEM water pump that I was going to replace anyway. With the lines pressurized I soon discovered that I had a leak somewhere as the carpeting by the fireplace was soaked. back to the dealer we go.

he discovered and repaired two leaks under the kitchen sink. one to the water line leading to the kitchen faucet and the other at the shut off valve for the fridge. he said the leaks were behind the 'wall' under the sink and that the water migrated under the floor to the carpeted area by the fireplace. using a wet vac he sucked up the excess water from the carpet and I set up a fan there to help dry that area.

long story short, after several days the carpeting was not drying so back to the dealer. upon examination of the wet carpet he had a tech investigate and discover yet another leak he said was behind the fireplace. the service mgr said he did not know why the water lines were routed that way but that leak was fixed and we had no further problem during our trip. no further problem that is until I pumped pink antifreeze through the system the other day.

prior to pumping the anti-freeze I emptied the fresh and hot water tanks, removed both water filters (under sink and in the fridge), installed the diverter plugs, opened each faucet (and toilet) one by one to drain whatever was there, then opened all of the drain valves to drain whatever was there. then I closed the faucets and the line drains and by-passed the water heater. since I was going to pump into the fridge the shut off valve under the sink remained open. while pumping 2.5 gallons of pink stuff I discovered the leak pouring out of the front edge of the front street side slide (slide was open).

the MH is going back to the dealer today. a photo of the fridge's drain valve is below.

RK...Thanks for the Pic. It appears you have an additional fitting (union?) higher up on the water line? That is all I have; no Drain cock as per your Pic.

I thought mine was bad with the leaks. My leak actually migrated to the left side forward storage compartment. Everything in there was wet and the Dome Light in the compartment was full of water. It took a couple trips driving and camping before all the water finally dried out.

When you said you had a leak behind the wall under the galley sink, that was where mine was actually pinched from when the right side slide out was retracted in. That was where they had to cut and fish the new line under the floor and out the front of the left side slide out.

When I look for the fridge water shutoff under the galley sink, I have a knob and I also have a small petcock. I have no idea why there are two shutoffs. Does yours have this? Or maybe I just have a mickey mouse setup that was used to connect the newly installed line to the original as a splice. Beats me!!

[rk911]

Originally Posted by Dfreiberger

RK...Thanks for the Pic. It appears you have an additional fitting (union?) higher up on the water line? That is all I have; no Drain cock as per your Pic.

I thought mine was bad with the leaks. My leak actually migrated to the left side forward storage compartment. Everything in there was wet and the Dome Light in the compartment was full of water. It took a couple trips driving and camping before all the water finally dried out.

When you said you had a leak behind the wall under the galley sink, that was where mine was actually pinched from when the right side slide out was retracted in. That was where they had to cut and fish the new line under the floor and out the front of the left side slide out.

When I look for the fridge water shutoff under the galley sink, I have a knob and I also have a small petcock. I have no idea why there are two shutoffs. Does yours have this? Or maybe I just have a mickey mouse setup that was used to connect the newly installed line to the original as a splice. Beats me!!

I just have the single quarter-turn valve under the sink, Dutch. and I had no water in the left front storage compartment, at least none that I detected. but then I haven't used the storage compartment light, either. i'll check that.

Banana Boat III went back to the dealer yesterday and I showed them the video I took of the anti-freeze pouring out of the bottom of the left front slide. they agreed there is a problem! and they're going to finish off the winterizing since it's going to be in the low 20's here tonight.

on an unrelated note...do you have the Westinghouse microwave/convection oven? the door on ours will not stay closed while driving. they replaced the entire unit but it didn't solve the problem. I think the design of the oven is defective. we've had to bungee the door closed.

[Dfreiberger]

Originally Posted by rk911

I just have the single quarter-turn valve under the sink, Dutch. and I had no water in the left front storage compartment, at least none that I detected. but then I haven't used the storage compartment light, either. i'll check that.

Banana Boat III went back to the dealer yesterday and I showed them the video I took of the anti-freeze pouring out of the bottom of the left front slide. they agreed there is a problem! and they're going to finish off the winterizing since it's going to be in the low 20's here tonight.

on an unrelated note...do you have the Westinghouse microwave/convection oven? the door on ours will not stay closed while driving. they replaced the entire unit but it didn't solve the problem. I think the design of the oven is defective. we've had to bungee the door closed.

Glad the dealer is going to take care of it. As far as the convection oven, mine has been fine. I now have a problem with the fridge door latch. If you haven't noticed, there is a cheesy drawer latch on the to of the doors to help keep them closed going down the road. One of mine broke already. Also WARNING. make sure the fridge door is closed when pulling in the slide. I typically leave the fridge open to air it when not camping. Nor can you see the doors when you are at the slide control panel. Mine was open and the handle snagged on the wall decor piece and about ripped the wall down.

[rk911]

Originally Posted by Dfreiberger

Glad the dealer is going to take care of it. As far as the convection oven, mine has been fine. I now have a problem with the fridge door latch. If you haven't noticed, there is a cheesy drawer latch on the to of the doors to help keep them closed going down the road. One of mine broke already. Also WARNING. make sure the fridge door is closed when pulling in the slide. I typically leave the fridge open to air it when not camping. Nor can you see the doors when you are at the slide control panel. Mine was open and the handle snagged on the wall decor piece and about ripped the wall down.

service mgr says they can not duplicate the leak. good thing he has a copy of the video I shot of the leak as it was occurring for proof. the plan is to remove the existing water line and the two fittings in the slide and replace it with a one-piece water line between the sink shutoff and the fridge. all under warranty.

thanks for the warning on the fridge door. I recognized the potential failure of the fridge and freezer door latches during a test drive weeks before we placed an order. when the order was placed I added two spare door latches and one spare freezer latch and have those in on board for when the time comes. they used to call me 'Murphy' at work as I was always talking about 'Plan B'.

the failure of the microwave/convection oven door to stay closed is, I think, not a Winnebago issue but a poorly designed and engineered latch by Westinghouse. replacing our current oven with another of the same model won't accomplish anything.