2016 Adventurer Clothes Dryer Buzzing, Whining

[Campers302]

2016 Adventruer 38Q

I TRIED TO SEND A VIDEO WITH SOUND, YEA, THAT AINT GONNA WORK

When this unit is running there is a constant buzzing, whining sound. It is very loud. When the dryer changes direction it once again is the same loud noise.
It dries cloths very well.


While reading the forums and searching for this answer I came across an article about cleaning the vent which I have apparently lost. Any information on this would be appreciated as well.


I will enter this my second question in another area as well but while here I will ask.
We are in a windy area and the slide topper is really blowing up high. High enough to make me say "That dont look right".
What are your thoughts?

[Americanrascal]

Hi Campers 302!

Hope you are coming to enjoy your new rig.

Yes the Splendide clothes dryer is a real treat! Makes one heck of a racket. Some folks have dealt with it and seem to have had some success calming the joyful noise it emits. I've read on various forums comments about it being the bearings and/ or the motors. Comes that way from the factory. When I saw how some fellow disassembled his to attack their suggested repair I quickly shut the video off and recognized the fix was over my paygrade. But they seem somewhat satisfied with the fix they made.

You may want to search this thread and the IRV2 threads to see if you can find it as its probably a couple of years ago it came out. IRV 2 has a long forum on interior appliances like washers/ driers etc and it may be in there or under the Winnebago stuff.

Our solution has been to just live with it. We close the door over the washer /dryer cubby hole, close the bedroom door, and sometimes the hall door by the kitchen. That tames the noise well.

Along those lines our washer died last year at 5 years old. To get to it I had to take out the dryer. I was surprised that even though the dryer was very bulky and awkward, its not heavy and I could lift it in and out by myself and set it on the bed to work around. (The washer is another story-it is a bear to move and get in and out of the slot- but it can be done). My learn from all that was that some of the Splendide replacement parts are so expensive, that if your washer or dryer breaks and has aged, its wise to at least consider total replacement.

The bottom line is that Splendide dryers are often very noisy and our fix was to live with it. Maybe someone here can offer a super duper easy fix, but after 6 years in our Q we've actually gotten used to it LOL!

Joe

[Americanrascal]

Forgot to mention that I regularly clean the vents carefully through the outside vent- and we ALWAYS clean the filter after every load. The length of vent pipe from the outside wall to the dryer is very short- only a few inches.

Slide toppers will occasionally flop around but should not have too much slack. The pass side slide and the bedroom slide are always snug on ours. The large drivers side forward slide has had some slack but I actually tightened it up when I worked on and aligned the entire slide itself.

Toppers are easy for some to work on but they are one of those things I consider over my pay grade when it comes to repair, replacement or adjustment. There are some good YouTube videos out there if its something you want to try to tackle your self. But they spook me a bit. Regardless of tension I always get some minor flopping in heavy winds. If the wind is so high that the toppers are really working we retract the slides all and ride out the storm to protect them

[Campers302]

Originally Posted by Americanrascal

Hi Campers 302!

Hope you are coming to enjoy your new rig.

Yes the Splendide clothes dryer is a real treat! Makes one heck of a racket. Some folks have dealt with it and seem to have had some success calming the joyful noise it emits. I've read on various forums comments about it being the bearings and/ or the motors. Comes that way from the factory. When I saw how some fellow disassembled his to attack their suggested repair I quickly shut the video off and recognized the fix was over my paygrade. But they seem somewhat satisfied with the fix they made.


With that said I will leave well enough alone. I'm sure if I were to attempt a repair I would go from working with a buzzing sound to nonworking with silence. Not really what I am looking for.


You may want to search this thread and the IRV2 threads to see if you can find it as its probably a couple of years ago it came out. IRV 2 has a long forum on interior appliances like washers/ driers etc and it may be in there or under the Winnebago stuff.

Our solution has been to just live with it. We close the door over the washer /dryer cubby hole, close the bedroom door, and sometimes the hall door by the kitchen. That tames the noise well.


This has been our resolve to this point and now beyond. You've stated it came from the factory that way so we will pretend that it is an added feature, CLOTHING SANITIZER.


Along those lines our washer died last year at 5 years old. To get to it I had to take out the dryer. I was surprised that even though the dryer was very bulky and awkward, its not heavy and I could lift it in and out by myself and set it on the bed to work around. (The washer is another story-it is a bear to move and get in and out of the slot- but it can be done). My learn from all that was that some of the Splendide replacement parts are so expensive, that if your washer or dryer breaks and has aged, its wise to at least consider total replacement.

The bottom line is that Splendide dryers are often very noisy and our fix was to live with it. Maybe someone here can offer a super duper easy fix, but after 6 years in our Q we've actually gotten used to it LOL!

Joe

Thanks for all of your information. It is greatly appreciated in this hour of learning.

[Campers302]

Originally Posted by Americanrascal

Forgot to mention that I regularly clean the vents carefully through the outside vent- and we ALWAYS clean the filter after every load. The length of vent pipe from the outside wall to the dryer is very short- only a few inches.


When we arrive home I will look inside the vent to see just what can be used to clean the unit.


Slide toppers will occasionally flop around but should not have too much slack. The pass side slide and the bedroom slide are always snug on ours. The large drivers side forward slide has had some slack but I actually tightened it up when I worked on and aligned the entire slide itself.



Yes the one on the drivers side is the one that flops in the breeze.
I will include a pic. I tried to include pic in the original post but it failed.
On our tt we traded we made a strap to calm the slide topper. I will look into tightening the topper. I will also make a strap to through across like I had before.


Toppers are easy for some to work on but they are one of those things I consider over my pay grade when it comes to repair, replacement or adjustment. There are some good YouTube videos out there if its something you want to try to tackle your self.



Just pulled one up.



But they spook me a bit. Regardless of tension I always get some minor flopping in heavy winds. If the wind is so high that the toppers are really working we retract the slides all and ride out the storm to protect them

As always thanks for information. Thanks for the friend request.

[Morich]

Not in that model of RV but I would call that top a bit too loose!
One way to look at a fix might be to check if there is any way to get some lube on the ends of the roller?
It looks from here like the roller is not putting enough tension on the fabic but that is one of those things that has to be a balance. You want it pulled tight enough to not flop or fold down when it rains but not so tight it rips the fabric off the coach!

A search for how to adjust tension on your brand and model, perhaps? Maybe a label on it for definite ID?

[Americanrascal]

Wow- I agree with Morich-- that topper is way too loose. The pic below is the loosest mine has been and I want it tighter.

[Campers302]

Originally Posted by Morich

Not in that model of RV but I would call that top a bit too loose!
One way to look at a fix might be to check if there is any way to get some lube on the ends of the roller?
It looks from here like the roller is not putting enough tension on the fabic but that is one of those things that has to be a balance. You want it pulled tight enough to not flop or fold down when it rains but not so tight it rips the fabric off the coach!

A search for how to adjust tension on your brand and model, perhaps? Maybe a label on it for definite ID?

Thanks Morich. I will check when we arrive at home base. I will first try some wd40 and then check up on the internet about tension.

As I stated above we made a strap for our TT and that worked just great. I would rather have it adjusted correctly though.

Thanks for the reply.
Here have some on me.
(;^)

[Campers302]

Originally Posted by Americanrascal

Wow- I agree with Morich-- that topper is way too loose. The pic below is the loosest mine has been and I want it tighter.

Yea that is the way the other two look, maybe a little tighter.


Got a question off topic. We just arrived at a CG and when I set it to auto level the only jacks that went down were the two front. I would have expected the rear to at least take up some slack and attempt to stabilize. Have you ever had this happen with your unit?


Talk to ya later. Thanks again.

[Americanrascal]

Originally Posted by Campers302

Got a question off topic. We just arrived at a CG and when I set it to auto level the only jacks that went down were the two front. I would have expected the rear to at least take up some slack and attempt to stabilize. Have you ever had this happen with your unit?

I never use auto level. It gets out of wack too often and you have to reset it. Overall I think it tends to hyper extend jacks much more than needed and is always searching its logic for wherever level may be hidden. In your manual there is a process to follow to reset the auto jack function if you want to use it and to get them back synced up.

Its so much easier just to manually set the jacks. Drop the front 2 always until they are down and set. Then drop the rears until they are down and set, then adjust side to side and front to back with minor adjustments until level. I put a small torpedo level on the floor behind the engine and use it to validate level.

Others may see this differently, but its worked well for us (and others) on our rigs for about 15 years.

Front first then rear is important as you want the front stabilized to protect against front chassis twist and cracking a windshield. Always have the engine running (has to anyway), brake on, then do the jacks to get level before operating slides. Have engine running for needed voltage for slide motors. Remember to unlock the large drivers slide before extending, and set the lock after retracting.

You may know this but when extending or retracting the pass side and bedroom slide, hold the button down after full extension or retraction for a longer period of time. Listen to allow the 2 motors on each slide to sync with each other and click off- usually about 3-5 seconds after each cycle. Its a very audible process. That keeps the motors in sync.

Sorry I got windy-- too much info.

Just my approach to this part of the duty.

[Campers302]

Originally Posted by Americanrascal

I never use auto level. It gets out of wack too often and you have to reset it. Overall I think it tends to hyper extend jacks much more than needed and is always searching its logic for wherever level may be hidden. In your manual there is a process to follow to reset the auto jack function if you want to use it and to get them back synced up.



I will look into this tomorrow. I noticed when doing auto level that it seems that the left front jack comes way up and then the right front comes up to meet it. Now the back jacks come up and it can be the left or the right first, seems like no rhyme or reason.


Its so much easier just to manually set the jacks. Drop the front 2 always until they are down and set.

What do you mean down and set? Do you mean fully extended or just on the ground and the level by the engine box level side to side?

Then drop the rears until they are down and set, then adjust side to side and front to back with minor adjustments until level. I put a small torpedo level on the floor behind the engine and use it to validate level.
I will get the book out tomorrow for this. I thought it was fine using the auto level but like today something doesn't seem right with the front jacks down and the rear still in the up position.


Others may see this differently, but its worked well for us (and others) on our rigs for about 15 years.

Front first then rear is important as you want the front stabilized to protect against front chassis twist and cracking a windshield. Always have the engine running (has to anyway), brake on, then do the jacks to get level before operating slides. Have engine running for needed voltage for slide motors. Remember to unlock the large drivers slide before extending, and set the lock after retracting.

You may know this but when extending or retracting the pass side and bedroom slide, hold the button down after full extension or retraction for a longer period of time. Listen to allow the 2 motors on each slide to sync with each other and click off- usually about 3-5 seconds after each cycle. Its a very audible process. That keeps the motors in sync.
Did not know this, what I did know is that there is alot of noise when moving the slides. I will pay special attention to the slides when we move in two days.


Sorry I got windy-- too much info.
OH HECK NO! Never too windy. I am looking forward to your tips and tricks.
Here's one for you and you might already know it. We could not find a heated water line so I improvised. We had to disconnect the hose at the CG as they requested. Worrying about the connection in the water closet with the black and gray and shower I purchased a trouble light and a 100 W light bulb and put it in that compartment. Kept it nice and toasty and nothing froze. Maybe I got lucky or maybe it worked.




Just my approach to this part of the duty.

Keep the info coming. I will take all you can dish up. You've go 6 years of experience on exactly what I have. I feel like I should put you on a retainer. ;^)


Thanks

[Americanrascal]

Its OK to use auto level- but you don't need to work your system and extend jacks that far to get level. Manual leveling will give you what you need-- and maybe even faster than auto level once you get used t it.

I use the minimum amount of all four jacks necessary to get level. I never try to fully extend the jacks. I make sure all four jacks are touching and just beginning to bear weight (what I call set) then tweak minimal manual adjustment in the low side to achieve level. But I always make sure all 4 are grounded when finished leveling. When leveling I use a small torpedo level with a bubble set on the floor behind the engine dog house to verify the level first front to back then side to side.

I found it works the hydraulic system much less this way. Always make sure your rear wheels never leave the ground and are always touching the surface (parking brake only sets on rear wheels through the drive shaft). If I get a spot where I can't keep rear wheels touching the ground I move the rig around or away to a new site. Ideally you never want any wheels off the ground (but I admit I have had the front wheels off once or twice)

The books are always a good place to start, but some of the best info on the Lippert components -manufacturer of the slide systems and jacks and other systems in the rig- is found on their web site. Lots of excellent video's there. Your bedroom and passenger side slides are called Power Gear Slim Rack systems. The forward drivers side uses rack and pinion operated rams and is the Power Gear Digisync system. Likewise Winnebago has some good videos on many of the systems -including the slides.

You did it right with the light bulb! Many folks use that system to provide some heat. I do a small 200 watt cube heater but your approach is probably more efficient!

You'll pick up lots of good tips and experience from many here and IRV2.

By the way, my jacks never come up or down perfectly even for a variety of reasons.

I enjoy trying to help and you'll find many other do also on here-- anytime. All your questions are great! We may need to start another thread to keep on subject or use the private message feature to assure we don't get off the initial thread subject too much. Its ok to start another thread on a subject you need help figuring out. Its always good to search first to see if someone else has already covered it to save you lots of time and ink.

[creativepart]

Campers302, In my Adventurer the dryer makes a whining noise and always has. Some say it can be fixed but I’ve yet to determine any way to do this.

In really strong winds (30 mph +) our slide toppers billow and make a “zipper” noise when the topper retracts with a lull in intensity. I’ve had the tension checked/increased and it still does it. Some folks retract their slides in those winds we’ve just waited out the wind.

I use auto level 100% of the time. Every once and a while only one pair lowers. It’s happened twice in five years. I just hit All Retract and then when all is finished I hit auto level again. That has always worked for me.

To load a video you need to upload it to YouTube and the post the link to the video.

[creativepart]

My method with Slides is to:
1. Hold down the extend or retract button until all stops… especially if it makes the whining sound when a motor(s) “torque out”. Then listen for one or two clicks per side.

2. Follow this up with another push of the extend retract button. It will make a brief motor noise and click on one or two sides of the slide.

3. I repeat this process multiple times. Sometimes you’ll hear one or both motors click on the 3rd or 4th repush of the button. I may do this process as many as 4 times. Sometimes it stops making a motor activating noise when I push the button some times it doesn’t.

This syncs the motors, that’s what the click is.

Note: I only do this on my Power Gear Thin Rail slides, the kind of slides with gear tracks on the outside walls of the slides. The one slide I have with rams underneath the slide doesn’t have dual motors in the top sides of the slide that need syncing.

Your 38Q has a different slide grouping than my 37F. So I’m not sure which of your are thin rail and which have dual rams underneath.

Update: that photo you posted above shows the slide that doesn’t need motor syncing. I assume your other two slides are the Thin Rail type that do need syncing.

[Campers302]

Originally Posted by creativepart

Campers302, In my Adventurer the dryer makes a whining noise and always has. Some say it can be fixed but I’ve yet to determine any way to do this.


So this is just the nature of the beast. I have decided that it is not a problem as it has been said that it comes from the factory that way, We will simply close the door it is too annoying.


In really strong winds (30 mph +) our slide toppers billow and make a “zipper” noise when the topper retracts with a lull in intensity. I’ve had the tension checked/increased and it still does it. Some folks retract their slides in those winds we’ve just waited out the wind.


Well with that said I will make a couple of straps that we can simply throw over the top and clip to the bottom of the slide as we did on our TT. It worked very well.


I use auto level 100% of the time. Every once and a while only one pair lowers. It’s happened twice in five years. I just hit All Retract and then when all is finished I hit auto level again. That has always worked for me.


I did as you described above but only the front pair came down again. We are sitting here now with only the front pair down. Slides are out.
We are level but I would like the rear pair down just for more stabilization.

I am assuming that if I level and put out the slides and feel that it is not right that I must bring the slides back in before attempting to level again.If that is the case then we are fine. After being in a TT for so long a little rocking doesnt bother me any more


To load a video you need to upload it to YouTube and the post the link to the video.
I will experiment with this. There are time when videos can say so much more than a picture.

Thanks for all you information, it is greatly appreciated

[Campers302]

Originally Posted by creativepart

My method with Slides is to:
1. Hold down the extend or retract button until all stops… especially if it makes the whining sound when a motor(s) “torque out”. Then listen for one or two clicks per side.

2. Follow this up with another push of the extend retract button. It will make a brief motor noise and click on one or two sides of the slide.

3. I repeat this process multiple times. Sometimes you’ll hear one or both motors click on the 3rd or 4th repush of the button. I may do this process as many as 4 times. Sometimes it stops making a motor activating noise when I push the button some times it doesn’t.

This syncs the motors, that’s what the click is.

Note: I only do this on my Power Gear Thin Rail slides, the kind of slides with gear tracks on the outside walls of the slides. The one slide I have with rams underneath the slide doesn’t have dual motors in the top sides of the slide that need syncing.

Your 38Q has a different slide grouping than my 37F. So I’m not sure which of your are thin rail and which have dual rams underneath.

Update: that photo you posted above shows the slide that doesn’t need motor syncing. I assume your other two slides are the Thin Rail type that do need syncing.

We will give this a go on the passenger living room slide and the bedroom slide as both are thin rails.


Thanks for the information. You and AmericanRascal are giving me vital information.
The books need to read and will be done.

Thanks again

[Campers302]

Originally Posted by creativepart

My method with Slides is to:
1. Hold down the extend or retract button until all stops… especially if it makes the whining sound when a motor(s) “torque out”. Then listen for one or two clicks per side.

2. Follow this up with another push of the extend retract button. It will make a brief motor noise and click on one or two sides of the slide.

3. I repeat this process multiple times. Sometimes you’ll hear one or both motors click on the 3rd or 4th repush of the button. I may do this process as many as 4 times. Sometimes it stops making a motor activating noise when I push the button some times it doesn’t.

This syncs the motors, that’s what the click is.

Note: I only do this on my Power Gear Thin Rail slides, the kind of slides with gear tracks on the outside walls of the slides. The one slide I have with rams underneath the slide doesn’t have dual motors in the top sides of the slide that need syncing.

Your 38Q has a different slide grouping than my 37F. So I’m not sure which of your are thin rail and which have dual rams underneath.

Update: that photo you posted above shows the slide that doesn’t need motor syncing. I assume your other two slides are the Thin Rail type that do need syncing.

Here is a picture of how the rig is setting at this time. Only the front jacks are down and the rear are at the very top.


Just thought Id share.

[creativepart]

Originally Posted by Campers302

Here is a picture of how the rig is setting at this time. Only the front jacks are down and the rear are at the very top.
Just thought Id share.

So, turn on the leveling system, hold down the manual button and then manually lower the back jacks until they just contact the ground. Done.

[Campers302]

Originally Posted by creativepart

So, turn on the leveling system, hold down the manual button and then manually lower the back jacks until they just contact the ground. Done.

Hot Digity Dog. You are the man.

I started the rig with the emer brake on.
Pressed and held the manual button for about 5 seconds
Pressed the rear jacks down, the first one touched the ground, stopped then

the second one started down, touched the ground and and then both moved together
and I released the button right away because as I said before we were level


You guys are the best because reading the manual is nothing like having you guys explain it. The manual is great, dont get me wrong, but.


Thanks one more time for you sage advise.
;^)