Basement AC not blowing cold air.

[tommymsw]

Originally Posted by BobC

No, you have it backwards. "Open" means the circuit has a gap and electricity can't flow. Short means the circuit is connected with no resistance and electricity will flow. Anything else will allow some flow, at least in one direction. A true "open" circuit will read open in both directions and will not allow electricity to flow in either direction. A true "short" will also read short in both directions and will allow electricity to flow in both directions. 1 is not both open and not open.

Based on your earlier post, when you touched your probes together, your meter read 0. This means 0 = short. If it reads 1 when they're separated, 1= open. If it reads something other than 1 when separated, than that reading means open. Without my being able to test your meter, I can't advise you on anything but 0 = short.

Diodes are devices that are open in one direction and short (or almost short) in the other, allowing electricity to only flow in one direction.

I don't mean to be condescending but, it's clear to me that you don't have a firm grounding in electrical measurements and in the nuances of your meter. Given that, you're asking for trouble and are likely to make an expensive error one way or the other.

Please get your VR checked professionally so you can move pass this.

Well... I am not trying to fix anything, just read the meter to see if it is working. It seemed pretty simple... It is weird that they said "You should see (1) on every connection other than 10-5 that should read "open". If "open" is a (1) and they had written "You should get a reading of (1) on ALL connections tested" it would have made more sense to me. So i wanted ALL connections to read (1) or open.

I get the idea of how diodes work and I know they were supposed to allow electricity in one direction. When the instructions said I should see (1) I assumed that (1) meant the electricity was going through as intended. And thus "open" I figured should mean NO electricity was going through.

I get the general idea, I was just confused that a reading of (1) means no electricity and also some electricity.

[tommymsw]

I want to thank everybody for the help. I am now quite sure it is NOT the generator. The AC must have just blown out. At least the ACs seem cheaper than a new generator.

It just seems that the condensers and not coming on in the AC. Fuses all look fine. I switched them all on and off to make sure.

i read somewhere that I should look into a HVAC company as they will come out to you.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by tommymsw

I want to thank everybody for the help. I am now quite sure it is NOT the generator. The AC must have just blown out. At least the ACs seem cheaper than a new generator.

It just seems that the condensers and not coming on in the AC. Fuses all look fine. I switched them all on and off to make sure.

i read somewhere that I should look into a HVAC company as they will come out to you.

Good luck. Hopefully it's something simple and inexpensive. It could be as simple as a faulty thermostat or it could be compressor #1's start and/or run capacitor (it's my understanding that compressor #2 won't run unless #1 is running). It's unlikely (but not impossible)that both compressors or their capacitors would suddenly fail simultaneously. It could also be your circuit board.

There are three things you might want to check out:

1. Check the internal glass tube type fuse inside your thermostat. Remove it and test it using your diode test setting, you should get a tone.

2. Open the electrical panel on the left front of your A/C unit. Locate the 120V AC power terminals at the bottom right of the electrical box (one pair is labeled #1 and the other #2). Measure each pair with your multi-meter to ensure there's 120v AC power to each one. This is the power coming from your breakers and the compressors won't run without it. No power most likely means a bad breaker. The fact that they switch on or off doesn't mean they're good.

Try #3 only if you feel up to it, it can be dangerous.

3. Read up on dealing with capacitor testing/replacement. They're capable of storing lethal amounts of electricity so you need to "short" the two terminals on each capacitor with a screwdriver (with an insulated handle) before touching them, making sure all power is off first. You can then switch the capacitors from #1 to #2 and vice versa by simply switching the wires (take a photo first so you know what goes where). If after doing so, compressor #1 runs, then one or both of its capacitors is bad. Any capacitors that are leaking of swelling are bad, but they can be bad and look good. The run capacitors are the tall cans, the start capacitors are the small black ones.

There is a trouble-shooting guide in the service manual but I'm not sure you want to dig into it since it can get pretty complicated and there are numerous things that could be wrong. It is, however fairly easy to check out the thermostat further by measuring the 12v voltage at a few key places.

[tommymsw]

Originally Posted by BobC

Good luck. Hopefully it's something simple and inexpensive. It could be as simple as a faulty thermostat or it could be compressor #1's start and/or run capacitor (it's my understanding that compressor #2 won't run unless #1 is running). It's unlikely (but not impossible)that both compressors or their capacitors would suddenly fail simultaneously. It could also be your circuit board.

There are three things you might want to check out:

1. Check the internal glass tube type fuse inside your thermostat. Remove it and test it using your diode test setting, you should get a tone.

2. Open the electrical panel on the left front of your A/C unit. Locate the 120V AC power terminals at the bottom right of the electrical box (one pair is labeled #1 and the other #2). Measure each pair with your multi-meter to ensure there's 120v AC power to each one. This is the power coming from your breakers and the compressors won't run without it. No power most likely means a bad breaker. The fact that they switch on or off doesn't mean they're good.

Try #3 only if you feel up to it, it can be dangerous.

3. Read up on dealing with capacitor testing/replacement. They're capable of storing lethal amounts of electricity so you need to "short" the two terminals on each capacitor with a screwdriver (with an insulated handle) before touching them, making sure all power is off first. You can then switch the capacitors from #1 to #2 and vice versa by simply switching the wires (take a photo first so you know what goes where). If after doing so, compressor #1 runs, then one or both of its capacitors is bad. Any capacitors that are leaking of swelling are bad, but they can be bad and look good. The run capacitors are the tall cans, the start capacitors are the small black ones.

There is a trouble-shooting guide in the service manual but I'm not sure you want to dig into it since it can get pretty complicated and there are numerous things that could be wrong. It is, however fairly easy to check out the thermostat further by measuring the 12v voltage at a few key places.

There is a lot of great information here. Thank you. I will have to wait for a break in the weather to do most of this. I did check the fuse in the thermostat and found it wrapped in tinfoil. So it was good I looked at that!

[BobC]

Here's a link to the service manual in case you don't already have it:

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/rvp/6535heatpump.pdf

As you know from your generator experience, you shouldn't jump to premature conclusions, but follow the troubleshooting guide, writing down your findings as you go.

If the A/C is OK, compressor #1 should start when plugged into 20A service. 30A or generator is only necessary for both or with other power draws. If you want to be safe, turn the breaker for #2 off before trying.

In my case, #1 works fine, it's #2 that tries to start but doesn't run, even when I connect it in place of #1, plus I've replaced the capacitors. My compressor alone costs about $550, that, plus labor, plus who knows what else may be wrong or about to fail is why I'm contemplating replacing the whole unit ($2,600 or so DIY).

There's a note on the troubleshooting guide that mentions:

Some coach manufacturers connect their energy management systems in series
with the 12VDC call for compressor #2. This is usually done between the output
Terminals on the P.C. Board and the Compressor #2 relay coil.

This is true of Winnebago and, if you look carefully you'll probably see two smaller wires (one of mine is white with black rings, the other is orange (I think) with black rings) that don't show in the service manual diagrams. This is what the above note is addressing.

[BlueMoose105]

Tommy, do you have the ability to do a video chat, e.g. FaceTime, Skype, etc.? I’d be happy to work through some troubleshooting of this issue with you that way. It is too time consuming and frustrating for me to try to continue to help you without seeing and hearing what you are seeing and hearing.

[tommymsw]

I appreciate that and I do have that ability. What I do not have is the time to work on the AC right now. It's been constant thunder storms here in NH. I have not even been able to finish packing. My move now is to pack up my house and get out of my house by tomorrow 8/7 and then I guess, bring the RV to a near by campground and hope for some good weather.

[BlueMoose105]

I understand about the weather. We’ve had a lot of crazy weather here too. Reach out when you can if you want to do the video chat.

[tommymsw]

Here is what I know so far...
I replaced the Intelletec control board (it was for sure bad). I was hoping this would fix the problem, it did not.

I swapped the two starter modules with no results.

The fan blows fine so I know it's getting electricity.

Symptoms:
1. Compressor will not start
2. High fan speed also will not start (stays the same speed)

I do have a green blinking light on the electric board of the ac, but no red lights to indicate compressors are running. But I feel like the "no high fan speed" is a good clue?

[tommymsw]

Here is what I know so far...
I replaced the Intelletec control board (it was for sure bad). I was hoping this would fix the problem, it did not.

I swapped the two starter modules with no results.

The fan blows fine so I know it's getting electricity.

Symptoms:
1. Compressor will not start
2. High fan speed also will not start (stays the same speed)

I do have a green blinking light on the electric board of the ac, but no red lights to indicate compressors are running. But I feel like the "no high fan speed" is a good clue?

[tommymsw]

Would a bad ground cause this? I do get a shock ig I touch the outside of my rv when it's plugged in and I have bare feet on wet ground.

ZERO places will work on this ac out here. Not any HVAC or any RV places. They all say to just replace it.

But what if it's only a $5 part?

[BobC]

1. You need to take care of your shock issue immediately. It could be fatal. In the meantime, keep it unplugged.

2. The current company behind the basement A/Cs is Airexcel. They have a service locater: https://www.airxcel.com/coleman-mach...ervice-locator

[billyb]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a capacitor when removed from the circuit and hooked th a vom, should show a bounce on the the meter when connected and then reversed , using the resistance scale.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by billyb

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a capacitor when removed from the circuit and hooked th a vom, should show a bounce on the the meter when connected and then reversed , using the resistance scale.

Check out this site for info on testing capacitors:

https://www.ifixit.com/Wiki/Troubles...ard_components

A simple multimeter test will only tell you if the capacitor is working to some degree or dead. It won't tell you if it's working properly.

If you know that one "side" of your A/C is working, you can switch capacitors to see if they're the problem. In any case, capacitors are relatively inexpensive so, if you buy a set of starting and run capacitors and find you don't need them, just keep them as a back-up.

Always discharge capacitors by shorting the terminals before handling them or the wires connected to them.

[tommymsw]

I imagine if the electric is grounded to the chassis and that's on rubber tires, that there is no way for the electricity to actually "ground".

I've been to the AC website. The only service company they mention in my area is "Campers Inn" I think. And they said they only service rvs bought from them.

[BobC]

Originally Posted by tommymsw

I imagine if the electric is grounded to the chassis and that's on rubber tires, that there is no way for the electricity to actually "ground".

I've been to the AC website. The only service company they mention in my area is "Campers Inn" I think. And they said they only service rvs bought from them.

I saw two service companies when I expanded the search to 25 mi and more at 50 mi from Manchester.

If I'm correct in my understanding, only the 12v system should be grounded to the chassis. What you're feeling is clearly 120V AC, which should not have any connection to the chassis. Apparently it does and you're completing the circuit to ground when you touch the coach.

Watch this video for more information:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=870zuHwEH30

Again, you're shock may be minor at this point, but could be fatal the next time.

[tommymsw]

Oh yea. 12v only. I guess I wasn't thinking. The 11 will be grounded via the plug. So now for the super hard part. Finding where that's coming from! Ungh...

[BobC]

Originally Posted by tommymsw

Oh yea. 12v only. I guess I wasn't thinking. The 11 will be grounded via the plug. So now for the super hard part. Finding where that's coming from! Ungh...

The video suggests the prime suspect is your shore power source, so check that out first. It's possible there's nothing wrong with your coach, unless you've experienced this when plugged into shore power at another location.