LP heater fan quit working. Where is this fan?

[rick61]

Hello, new to the Winnebago forum. I have a 2004 Journey that I just purchased and took it on a maiden voyage this weekend. I live in NE MN and fortunately it is furnace season already. The LP furnace worked for one cycle and wouldn't come on again after that. I heard the thermostat click when I move the switch to LP heat, but nothing happens. I moved the fan switch to fan on mode and nothing happens. My burning question is where is the fan located to check for power at the fan? I have also seen somewhere on here that the water heater has to come out to access the fan? This RV has a few more bugs in it, but I am going to address this issue first. Thanks for the help and thanks to the admin for letting me join the site! Rick Anderson

[Morich]

Five different models of Journey that year from 32 to 39 feet makes it hard to be accurate.

[Jim_HiTek]

I'm working on my '02 Journey with heatpump and TrueAir thermostat now and have a similar issue. In my Journey, the single gas furnace has the same sypmtoms as yours does and the furnace is mounted right above the water heater. And no, the water heater does not need to be removed to access the fan.

There is a test...pull the power center (in your hallway? right?) out of the wall and locate the 3 pin connector that goes to the TrueAir thermostat. Disconnect it from the thermostat. Jumper the first pin (+12V) to the 2nd pin (Thermo). That should start the furnace sequence...you'll hear a click coming from the basement. After 4-5 seconds, the fan should kick on. 5-7 seconds later, you should hear clicking, than a woosh as the gas ignites. If no click, or no woosh, or no heat after a minute, you have a problem in the furnace. Make sure you have gas of course. If that all passes, remove the jumper. The gas valve is turned off and then after a 2 minute delay the furnace fan shuts off. It runs like that to cool the heat exchanger. If it passes everything, that sort of points to the TrueAir thermostat, but plugging the connector back in after 5 minutes often resets it so check operation after you do.

You can read my work about this at my ad free blog at the #3 link: Heating & Cooling...

[rick61]

37ft with heat pump under the bed

[rick61]

Yes, control panel is in the hallway. After removing the thermostat cover, I found the two screws holding the board to the wall, and found the three wire connector. On the t-stat side of the harness, the wires are red-white tracer, blue-white tracer and solid white. I assume the rwt is the hot side of harness? I jumped the harness and nothing happens. Also of note, this does have a heat pump under the bed which does work with the t-stat

[Jim_HiTek]

Sometimes when I ran that test I couldn't hear the click from the basement furnace. It can be quiet. If you have help, go outside when it's quiet and have a friend short the terminals. Listen near the furnace and you should hear it click. For the test, the short needs to stay in place.

I agree that RWT is the power, white is ground as that's typical for Winnie, and BWT is the THERMO wire. Shorting RWT & BWT should start the sequence. And you should be shorting it at the disconnected connector, not the thermostat connector. The end that disappears down into the wall. You can't hurt anything by shorting the other two wires since white is ground but shorting white to red would be bad. Measure the voltage! You should have at least 11 volts there. I always measure battery voltage so often see 13 volts there when plugged into shore power.

Assuming you did the test correctly, and sounds like you did, if you're not getting a click, make sure you have 12 volts there at the connector. Digital volt meters are just $10 these days at big box stores. If you don't, you have a blown 12V circuit breaker, which isn't good. My 12 volt CBs are button push to operate types and live at the end of the bed along with the 120 volt circuit breakers, and there are some under the refer near the floor behind a 12" X 4" door. If you do have 12 volts there and it's failed the jumper test then the furnace needs to be pulled out.

Keep in mind that the heat pump under the bed and the gas furnace are integrated with the thermostat, and the thermostat operates them both or one at a time depending on outside and inside temps, and where you have the switch set.

[rick61]

I re-did the test with a new jumper wire and had a very different result. When I jumped the two terminals together, it arced violently. Short to ground, bad module, and or bad motor. Using a test light, I would get a ground from middle and other end wire. I was hoping this would be a easy fix......

[Jim_HiTek]

You should not see a ground from both the middle and one end. Does suggest a short. Yeah, I'd say if you're not up to removing the furnace yourself, now would be a good time to call a mobile RV repair service. Check their reviews first. You want to get this fixed before winter sets in but if you're in a mild winter area, you can probably get along fine with a bunch of electric heaters around the house (pick them up at Thrift stores right now for just a few bucks or WM for $10) and the heatpump. But if you're going to be living in it during the coldest part of the winter, the heatpump won't turn on if it gets to be 40 F or below so having the gas furnace as a back up is crucial. If you are up to pulling it out yourself, I'll be here to try to help.

In my case, when it gets too cold, I just drive south into the SW, stay in Pahrump Nevada for a month, then further south to Amado Arizona for another month, than maybe Mexico but probably not this year. No problem for me. That's why I've been able to put off fixing the furnace for 1.5 years. Right now I'm up in Milton Freewater Oregon where it's a very comfortable 62 F with full on sunshine during the day peaking at 80 F. Nights are getting down to the low 50's. Really nice outside during the day. Just happen to be working on the furnace ATM.

If you can, take a few digital pictures of your setup outside where the furnace intake and exhaust are. You do have to park the photos online somewhere to be able to post them here.

[rick61]

The heater box is to the right of the water heater. The trim around the wheel opening is hinged also, making it a little easier to get to all of the screws covering the heater box opening. As far as fixing it this year, no. Off to winter storage for 7 mo. Thank you for the input though.

[MNGolfer]

I have some spare parts for a Norcold fridge. We sold our Journey and I forgot I had these. If someone is interested in them, only have to pay for shipping.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/h...182777601.html