Propane Heater problem

[Phil.]

Would like to know how might I find a problem and how to fix issue. I have a 2005 Winnebago Adventure. No gas Heat. Set temperature at 70, fan comes on, runs for about a minute or 2 then shuts off. Where do I look and how do I get heat? There is plenty of LP and Electric Heat works fine. Puzzled

[Eagle5]

Hi Phil,
On this site, the first result looks promising:

• no gas heat

Eagle5

[be happy]

Using the link that Eagle gave is a start for sure. Double check to make sure you are getting propane to your stove and water heater. You might also go to the vents on the outside of your unit and make sure they are clear. Mud dobbers love to build homes in those vents

[Morich]

This is a pretty common thing to happen when folks are not aware of a builtin hazard on lots ofRV. The vents are just the right size and shape to attrack a number of flying insects that build nests (wasp, mud daubers?) and as they build in the vent, it cuts airflow.
One of the safety items on RV is that the system first starts a blower and that airflow is determined by a sail switch which blows in the wind. If the flow is restricted, the switch doesn't open and the system doesn't open the gas valve.
Quickie way to spot this as a potential is to hold a hand on the gas valve at the outside of the furnace as somebody turns the thermostat up. In this case one might see the blower start but the valve not open, then it would take some looking to see if it is a nest blocking flow or other problems, possibly nad wire connections or bad board even.

[PJTroyer]

I have the same issue. but no gas to cook top nor furnace nor instant water heater. So perhaps I've been told a "check valve" problem in the LP line or an oil block in the LP regulator??

[71_340]

I had the same problem on my 2006 Sightseer.. Replaced the LP pressure regulator and all was good.


Also, when you open the tank valve, do it slow otherwise the fail safe mechanism in the regulator will close.

[jarnarcos]

Had the same issue. Turned out to be driver error. I wasn't opening up the propane valve all the way. Couple of turns was enough to run the stove but not enough to keep the heater happy so it would cycle through ignition and startup and then shut off. Completely turned on the valve to the stop and things got happy.

[Morich]

Different valves have different seals but it is normally good practice to open them fully as the type which has an internal seal may let the gas leak around the stem if it is not opened to press the seal against the inside of the valve. Just safer to always open fully as you may not recognise which you have.

[HappiHenri]

Also own a 2005 Adventurer. Since your heater blower only comes on for a minute before shutting off it means that your are not getting any propane burn in your heater. So could be a problem in your heater unit, or a problem with your LP gas tank / regulator.

As others have suggested - does your stovetop work? Is your water heater able to function on LP gas? If those work fine then your may have to pull your heater assy to clean out and check & test settings. Igniter may have failed.

[Morich]

One way to check if the vent is blocked is so simple, it's really easy to miss! Rather than going into teardown of the furnace to look for blocked, try holding a hand over the vent as the blower is running! If you've got good airflow, don't bother tearing it down, right? It may still be a problem with the sail switch but you will have run down one of the bunch of possible causes.

[Ladypilot10]

I have a 2009 Winnebago Chalet. Both the stove and hot water work fine.

It is a ducted Suburban heating unit.


But I turn up the thermostat, and nothing happens. What do I need to check?
The heater never starts. Unfortunately, we have never used it since we
bought the unit in 2015. We live in the south, and have used an electric
heater when we needed one.


But I wish to get it working as the weather has changed drastically across the
U.S.


Thanks.

[Sanfordja]

Ha....I had the same problem. I have a 2018 2401RG Minnie. I had gas to the stove and hot water heater but when I turned the furnace on, the fan would run for a minute and turn off. I finally figured out that it was my sail switch inside the fan housing. The sail switch makes sure there is enough airflow before allowing gas into the ignition chamber. I located my sail switch mounted on the outside of the fan housing with the sensor inside. When I took the switch out, I found that a spider had woven a nice little web accross the switch so it could not sense any airflow. It was a very easy fix but it did take me a lot of head scratching before figuring it out.
I'm not sure if this is your issue but thought I would throw that out there. I thought I was going to have to replace the whole furnace.

[Morich]

So how the furnace works can vary a little bit but the RV I have dealt with have a common routine, so checking for that seems rational, until you know different. First step is the thermostat has to close a set of contacts to signal the board in the furnace to start things.
So what type thermostat? If it it the standard mechanical sort, checking the thermostat to see the signal is getting sent is where I would start. A meter to a make sure the 12 volt electrical is getting to the thermostat is pretty easy.
If it is a newer digital thermostat, making sure batteries are good in it may find an easy fix.
Some really easy things to check is the fuse or breaker that supplies power to the furnace and stat as it may be simply not getting power.
My routine is that the switch in the stat closes, sending power to the board in the furnace and starting the blower. Once the blower runs for a time, there is a switch in the airflow which lets the furnace know there is adequate air moving to open the gas valve.
Done this way to prevent filling and RV with gas is there is not air to blow it out the exhaust! Once you have reached this point, you will likely hear a snap as the gas valve opens and then it ignites.
But you are not getting step one of the blower running so much simpler for starting the fix.
A very common item on things that are not used much is corrosion on contacts like wiring. So a poor man's quick fix can be to check the connections on the board on the outside of the furnace. There are often wires which are under screws and tightening the screw can lead to contact. Also there are often "quick-connect" types connections, so pulling them off and on a few times can clear any corrosion built up there.
Following the electrical path is the sure way but this is often a time for using the quick "shotgun" method does the job.
I don't see a 2009 Chalet listed for wiring. Might check the correct ID?