Refrigerator 110V vs LPG for cooling

[wagonmaster2]

I have a 2004 Meridian with a Norcold 1200 frig in it and ever since new the 110V setting has kept the frig about 3-5 degrees cooler than the LPG setting. Usually it really doesn't make much difference but with the heat this summer every degree of cooling counts. Is there supposed to be any adjustment on the LPG burner or flame, and does it make any difference what position that little trap door (about 1" square that lets you see the flame) is in? Whether it has the little hole mostly open or should that door completely cover the hole when not viewing the flame?

We usually do most of our traveling in the spring and fall when the weather is a little bit cooler but this year we're having to travel to relatives in this 95-102 degree temperatures and setting in an open campground with no trees.

Thanks

Wagonmaster2

[Go Dawgs]

I travel with the propane on and have the electric on hookups. I have traveled in Eastern Washington when it was close to 100. I opened the door to the frig on the outside during the day to allow air flow to the back. It still got upto 42 degrees but for only a few hours. You can also freeze a bottle of water and place in the frig during the day and allow it to thaw, then at night place in freezer and redo the process each day. JMHO

[jlfbatonrg]

I don't think there should be much if any difference between electric and propane. We don't see any. It would be a good idea to check your propane burner and make sure it doesn't have some dirt on it. You might also want to be sure the Lp pressure is correct. With a manometer you should have 10.5-11 inches of water pressure with the burners on the stove on. As to the view door, we keep ours completely closed. The burner gets its air from the opening in the burner cage. We have noticed a flame out with the door open in heavy side winds.

[wagonmaster2]

Never thought about checking the LPG pressure since all the other burners seem to be working very well. If that's the case it's been that way since the coach was new in 2004. Guess my next move would be to try to locate a mamometer and check the LPG pressure.

Wagonmaster2

[KIX]

Originally Posted by wagonmaster2

Never thought about checking the LPG pressure since all the other burners seem to be working very well. If that's the case it's been that way since the coach was new in 2004.

Not necessarily. Internally the regulator has a spring. Over time that spring may lose tension and render a somewhat different pressure than originally set. Checking for proper operating pressure when a problem arises is a prudent thing to do. Guess my next move would be to try to locate a mamometer and check the LPG pressure.

Wagonmaster2

Actually, making a manometer is pretty easy. They're also called slack tube manometers. If you can find a picture of one it will be self explanatory.

[wagonmaster2]

Any suggestions on a good place to purchase a manometer, and do the ones you'd purchase have to be specialized in any way to use them on an RV? I understand a stove top burner is the best place to connect one. An RV shop let me use theirs many years ago and best I remember it was very simple but don't know if they had specialized it for the stove top or if they can be purchased ready to use.

A manometer sounds like something that would be handy to have and periodically check the LPG pressure.

Wagonmaster2

[troth]

Originally Posted by wagonmaster2

....

A manometer sounds like something that would be handy to have and periodically check the LPG pressure.

Wagonmaster2

They're about $80.00 and they're something you don't really need. A good RV repair shop has one, but even they will seldom use it. If you suspect a 'low flame' on your fridge (not enough heat from LP gas), it's likely dirt/rust in the burner head, or dirt in the gas supply tube orifice, or a bad/inoperable thermostat. There are good troubleshooting links here at the irv2 forums. You might try searching in the Winnie forum for "Norcold troubleshooting".

Tom

[erstanfo]

If it is in a slide, on really hot days, remove the upper vent cover. It made a real difference in my previous class C. you can even mist the upper condenser with a spray bottle of water. I had to do that when I thought the unit had failed, but it turned out to be a piece of tape had fallen down and blocked the fan from running. This was during 110 heat in central Texas.

[sundancer87]

Having lived with a gas refrigerator for 20 years I've learned a few things about mine.

Any temperature below 80 degrees is perfect for an LP unit. Any temperature over that and the efficiency is out the window.

Below 80 degrees I can expect a 35 to 38 degree box, measured at the fins in the lower part. 80 degrees and above I watch as the ice on the fins slowly defrost until the box hits its normal 40 to 45 degree temperatures.

This is an annual occurance and I can set my clock as to when the ambitent temperature rises over night. It's a common thing each year so I don't pay much attention to it.

This is a White Westinghouse/Gibson/Frigidare and whatever other name they hang on the box that had the compressor and evaporator removed and replaced with an absorption unit.

This time of year, over 80 degrees in the house, I'll fire up the little Dometic 1303 referigerator in the shed and use it to pre-cool the big stuff before I store it in the big refrigerator. Pre-cooled items going into the big refrigerator greatly lessens the temperature drop to a certain degree.

Cold mass in the refrigerator is better than an empty refrigerator as the mass absorbs and retains the coolness.

The summertime is not the time to stand with the door open and take inventory, that's a wintertime activity as the refrigerator will recover more quickly.

A good remote therometer in nice to have. You can instantly see how much the temperature changes inside the refrigerator when the door is only open for a few seconds at a time in the summer.

Gas v 110volt may have a slight difference in inside temperature. Both heat the solution to a boiling point to start the perculation process and chilling process.

I check my gas pressure at the regulator first and then at the burner tube. That tells me the regulator is working and the line is clear. If the flame looks weak then I pull the orifice and blow it out. The orifice is usually the problem with a low flame height and BTU output.

One other trick is to clean the chimney if you can. The chimney may get sooted up and imped the flow of exhaust gases and therefore not allow the flame to burn as hot as necessary.

All in all, the absorption refrigerator works better at lower ambient temperatures.

[1ciderdog]

Wagonmaster2, We are on our 5th RV in about 30 years. In the first RV the propane and the electric cooling capability in the refrigerator were off quite a bit. I've never been able to convince my wife to switch to electric refrigerator when in a camp ground or other place where AC is available. She will stay with the propane and that's OK by me since it doesn't use a lot of propane and I'll pick a more substantial thing to argue about. (I know my beverages stay cool and don't freeze with the propane)

[Ramzfan]

I always was told that the Refrigerator would run better on electric and that the propane was just to keep it cold once it got to the right temperature. I have never had a refrigerator that worked as well on propane as it did on 120v electric.

[NeilV]

Do a lot of dry camping and gas works fine. I do keep the orifice and burner clean though and do blow out the flue on a regular basis. Former Arkla Servel service tech (Absorbtion AC units). The sight flapper should be kept closed except for when viewing the flame while serviceing.

[mikf]

take the burner out and clean orfice with compressed air. also clean slots if they have carboned up. flames can look good, but may not be getting hot enough if they have a little bit of dirt.