Quote:
Originally Posted by Tgayne251
Have a 2010 Journey 40L owned since new now 14 years old and great shape 13,500 miles. Has basement air unit still works great however living in Florida want to have a backup unit , installing a New AC unit where current exhaust fan is which size and measurements match's new AC non ducted.
The problem is No AC power , and between the roof and headliner area is white styrene foam , and my thought and plan is to go through the roof next to the AC unit conduit on top of the roof using small stand offs , then go through the roof at the bathroom area next to plumbing vent down to Dryer equipped plug to make my connection for the new AC unit , of course sealing all entry points with lap sealant and adding aluminum plates for re-enforcement where the penetrations' are being made using structural adhesive to hold these plates to reinforce the roof area and prevent cracking where the conduit goes through.
its the only way I can see how to make this work however throwing out to everyone for comment as opposed to tearing out a perfectly good ceiling risking breaking retainers and clips that may be no longer available and no one will see the pipe from the ground and being on stand offs it will allow proper drainage in around the pipes..
|
Your plan might work, how far does the conduit need to go and what are you planning to use at the ends for entry? LBs? They make EMT 90's with one side rain tight. One issue is are you planning on putting Romex in this conduit? Technically that is a violation plus you will fight with it and possibly damage it if using 90s. UF could work but again nearly impossible to fit through 90s and LBs unless over sized.
Your standoffs could be made from shallow unistrut bedded in lap seal. Another thought is Sealtight, but you might have a hard time getting it to lay close to the roof immediately after it exits the coach.
The surface mount conduit on the inside sounds easier but maybe not attractive to some folks.
Is there a way you can bring the circuit through cabinets and get close to the unit then punch out to the roof for a short run?
Also instead of coming back inside through the roof you could come into the side of the shroud and through a bushing into the evaporator housing then to the AC connection. You'd have to have some slack in the wire and maybe a Molex type disconnect to make shroud removal possible.