A Simple Question..

[SCVJeff]

It's close to 100 degrees while driving the coach down the road @ ~1800RPM (60'ish). How cold should I expect the coach A/C to be? I haven't checked it, but it "feels" like it's in the 60's. If this was my car I would be seeing the lower 40's or better.
Tnx, Jeff

[SCVJeff]

It's close to 100 degrees while driving the coach down the road @ ~1800RPM (60'ish). How cold should I expect the coach A/C to be? I haven't checked it, but it "feels" like it's in the 60's. If this was my car I would be seeing the lower 40's or better.
Tnx, Jeff

[porscheracer]

At anything over 90, we usually supplement with both units. A 30 degree temperature differential, especially with the air infusion from driving, is a bit outside the range of the systems. After all, you're trying to cool 2000 cubic feet, not 150.

From a technical standpoint, your dash air vents should be cooling at about 45 degrees below ambient, and the coach air at about 35. if they're not, you may have a problem.

[John_Canfield]

Dash air usually gets very cold compared to basement air, however Norm is on-target - too large of a volume to adequately cool in hot weather.

Our dash air can keep our 40' reasonably comfortable with air temps in the 80s. Generally in the summer we need to start the genny at lunch and fire up basement air.

[Ready2Travel]

I've checked the temperature of the dash air coming out and it's always in the 40's even when it's 100 outside. Same in the car.

I've never felt the need to run the basement air when traveling, even when it's 100 outside. Dash air seems to keep us relatively comfortable if we adjust the air vents to blow directly on us. It is hot however anywhere away from the front.

[RCtime]

Jeff
Is it the same temp. when you switch from normal cooling to max cooling?
If you experience warmer air while in normal mode than I bet the vacuum operated shut off valve is not closing all the way, allowing some hot coolant water in your heater core.
I just bought a new one for mine because of this, hav'nt installed it yet though.

[becks]

WE use one or the other or both. More times than not we just run the genny. But always run the dash air some to keep the system working. Its a good way to see that the genny is getting exercised. Its the humidity that gets the best of us in the midwest summers.

[autofish]

Dash air should be about 45f in all temps. If it is not then either the hot water is still going through heater core and or the heater core air valve is letting hot air in to the ac core. Had problens with mine when new but fixed when installing new heatwer core. Now dash ac will keep rig cool even in 110f death valley.

[SCVJeff]

OK, I was expecting to see around 45ish at the vent and was rather surprised when it wasn't, but there is a significant freon loop there as well. Did I see someone on the forum mention that there is a core shut-off valve down by the engine? That's the quickest test if there is one.

[kalynzoo]

Coming from the same general area, I always seem to travel with the basement air on. In my previous MH's I always kept the roof air going. Especially on drives to Las Vegas or Sacramento up the 5. Remember the MH compares to a small apartment, and using the dash air is like cooling it with a small window air unit. Even my van requires boosted rear air vents to cool the contents. In the summer, in SoCal, I compare the inside of my MH to a convection oven. Happy Trails.

[Gary CA]

During our last long trip this summer my wife rigged a tension rod with a clear shower curtain; positioned ceiling to floor right behind the driver's and passenger's seat.

Good experiement that kept the cool dash AC inside of this compact space rather than losing the cool air to the back of the coach.

[SargeW]

Nice work Gary! Got your rubber ducky on the dash too?

Sarge

[cbeierl]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by SCVJeff:
... Did I see someone on the forum mention that there is a core shut-off valve down by the engine? That's the quickest test if there is one. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

On my Cat-powered Vectra there are two yellow shutoff valves back at the engine on the driver's side (accessed from underneath) that shut off the coolant flow to the front heater core (and I presume to the motoraid loop in the hot water heater as well).

[Shuffster]

I recently did a check on the outlet temperature using a digital thermometer. With outside temp at about 90 degrees I observed 48 degree outlet temp. Prior to an injection of 19 oz. of R 134, I was getting about 60 degrees. I hope I corrected the leak, that appeared on the rear fitting of the condenser. (slight amount of oil residue seen on fitting). Present performance was sufficient for 90 degreee outside temperature. Doubt if it would be enough if temperatures approached 100.

[Finhawk]

A/C?? In Western Washington? More like the heater most of the time. I realize that I'm griping. Sorry

[SCVJeff]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Finhawk:
A/C?? In Western Washington? More like the heater most of the time. I realize that I'm griping. Sorry </div></BLOCKQUOTE>A/C: That's the thing that makes ur air as dry as the rest of the country..

Shufster: Thanks, that's what I was looking for. I know that the dash air can't do a lot, but I need to start with cold air out of the vents. Guess I'll have to trade my R-12/22 gauges in for a new set.

[SargeW]

Hey Jeff,

One thing that helps my dash air do a better job is when it is really hot, 90+ I use the window defroster fans pointed backwards towards the DW and I set on low. It really helps to distribute the air more efficiently.

Sarge