Location of aux. rear heater.

[Ken Lohmeier]

I have a 2001 30ft. Brave. The rocker switch on the dash no longer turns on the fans for the aux. rear heater. Before this the fans were making a squeeling noise. My questions are. Is there a fuse that I am missing? Where is the heater core and fan motor located? I have been all over under the rig and the only place that I can see where the hot water hoses enter is into box like unit located behind the hot water heater. Please don't tell me that I have to remove the hot water heater. Thank's

Ken

[Ken Lohmeier]

I have a 2001 30ft. Brave. The rocker switch on the dash no longer turns on the fans for the aux. rear heater. Before this the fans were making a squeeling noise. My questions are. Is there a fuse that I am missing? Where is the heater core and fan motor located? I have been all over under the rig and the only place that I can see where the hot water hoses enter is into box like unit located behind the hot water heater. Please don't tell me that I have to remove the hot water heater. Thank's

Ken

[Fred B.]

Ken,
That's where the heater is located. The fan has rusted up & stopped. If you can get at it you may be able to free it up & then apply 3 in 1 oil to the bearings. The fuse is under the dash in my 00 adventurer in a Winne supplied fuse panel. I was able to squeeze into the compartment & pull off the cover (several sheet metal screws) & force the squirel cage fan loose & then lubricate with 3 in 1 oil. I've added some plastic oil supply lines to make this yearly task much easier. Not familiar with your Brave, but our rig is pretty tight in that area & I'm 6'2" & 230#s so it's a tight squeeze.

[livingaboard]

yep...that is the same thing giving me a pain right now. I have a 2000 35u Suncruiser. The fan doesn't work on low and makes a horrid sound on high. I suspected the motor is freezing up so I remove the side cover, mostly, and bent it out of the way. I squirted wd40 on one end where the bearing is and nothing changed.

I am not sure how to get the motor out since I have to remove the cage housing and that appear to be bolted from inside the ductwork. It looks like I have to put my hand down the 3 inch by 8 inch or so floor register opening and work that way.

I will look at it again and then figure out how to order the motor.

[DancinCampers]

Here are 2 threads on my repair

Thread 1

Thread 2

[Duner]

DancinCampers, great info and pic's for procedure to fix that blower problem!!!
I used screen capture from those threads to put it all in a Word document and saved with all my other reference material. I especially like those fix'es that don't cost "an arm & leg", instead uses some owner ingenuity.


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by livingaboard:
yep...that is the same thing giving me a pain right now. I have a 2000 35u Suncruiser. The fan doesn't work on low and makes a horrid sound on high. I suspected the motor is freezing up so I remove the side cover, mostly, and bent it out of the way. I squirted wd40 on one end where the bearing is and nothing changed.....

.... I will look at it again and then figure out how to order the motor. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

livingaboard, don't buy a motor!!! Reading DancinCampers fix, it's gotta' be the squirrel cage moved and is rubbing (IMHO).

Good luck,

[Ken Lohmeier]

Thanks for the replys. Dont ask me why I did'nt search threw my extended service policy a little better. The rear heater is listed as a coverage item. Of course it was the very last item listed under "heating system". I called Good Sam and they told me to take it to a repair shop and have the shop call them with a estimate of repair. I have a $50.00 deductible so with a great omount of luck I just might come out of this smelling like a rose. Again thanks for the replys. Great Forum.

[livingaboard]

I looked at this again after reading these great posts, with instructions. I found I do not have to remove the water heater, or any hoses connected to the aux heat exchanger unit.

I only had to remove the three screws holding down the unit and then it rotates out of the way. The side panel can then be removed and with a 1/4 inch offset ratcheting wrench or socket, the 4 bolts holding on the motor can be removed althought it is a little tight. I would say it only took about 20 minutes to get the motor out.

I pulled out the motor unit and found it must be rubbing inside between the plastic cage and motor because there was no visible place it was rubbing. I gave it a few whacks and that enabled the cage to be rotated much smoother. One of the nuts came loose so I put some adhesive caulk on it and am letting it dry before putting it back together. I suspect it will work fine for a while. I also used some adhesive caulk on the end of the cage hoping it will help it stay in place.

The motor looks like new with no dirt or wear showing on anything. I guess it must have been screwed up when it was fairly new and the owner just never used it.

I suspect that I will now have low speed and it will be quieter. We will see.

[Pubtym]

"I only had to remove the three screws holding down the unit and then it rotates out of the way. The side panel can then be removed and with a 1/4 inch offset ratcheting wrench or socket, the 4 bolts holding on the motor can be removed althought it is a little tight. I would say it only took about 20 minutes to get the motor out."


Can you describe where these three screws are again..Are you working these three down throgh the floor vent?

Where is the side panel you describe? Is it on outside area near engine reaR??

[livingaboard]

the three screws are Philips head screws that go down through the galvanized metal housing brackets behind the water heater. You have to access these from the basement.

The side panel is held on by about 8 screws I think and it is also galavanized metal I believe. It is the panel that is on the side the heater unit and when you crawl into the basement you will see it right in front of your face.