Looking for help with a Norcold

Marinelender · 12-14-2010, 02:09 PM

Hi everyone........I have a Norcold 4 door in a 39' '03 Winnebago Journey DL. The fridge will operate on gas only. When I switch it to AC the error message "no ac" appears. I want to check the plug and the 5 amp fuse but I don't know how to get to the back of the unit. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance........Jim

smlranger · 12-14-2010, 02:42 PM

Access to the rear of the fridge (at least the lower portion with the controls, etc.) is from outside the coach by removing the lower access door behind the fridge.

Marinelender · 12-14-2010, 03:10 PM

Thanks smlranger....I was able to confirm the 5 amp fuse is OK...with a flashlight and a mirror I think I can check that I'm plugged in....and thanks again for this website, it's saved my bacon more than once......Jim

hometool · 12-14-2010, 03:23 PM

hi keep in mind that unit has 3 diffrent power supplys 12vdc for the controls and interor light and a 110v to run the heator for electric operation and 110v from the inverter for the icemaker i would check the outlets at the back from outside try pluging in a lamp or drop cord to check the outlet lee.

Marinelender · 12-14-2010, 06:40 PM

Thanks hometool........I'll plug something in in the morning and make sure I've got power at the plug..........Jim

Marinelender · 12-15-2010, 09:34 AM

So here I am....I checked the 120V plug this morning...it's OK...I also pulled out the 5 AMP fuse on the 120 side of the board and it looks OK. I'm on my way to get another fuse anyway, but if that doesn't fix my problem does anyone have another idea besides "call a pro"? Thanks.......Jim

Grimesy · 12-15-2010, 10:00 AM

First check with Norcold, they recently sent out a bunch of recalls which included my 2005 model. The most common cure at least on mine is to run a jumper from pin # 15 to ground, which rests the system. In my short memory I can't remember if the refer has to be off or on so check farther prior to doing this.

Don, WIT 70041

movin-on · 12-15-2010, 10:04 AM

Here is a link to the service manual if you are good at troubleshooting...It's good to have either way...

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/ncold1200.pdf

Duner · 12-15-2010, 10:06 AM

Jim, when you say "I checked the 120V plug", I was wondering how you did that? Did you use a volt meter?

Plugging in a trouble light or some small appliance would confirm that there is both voltage and current available to power the ac heating element.

The ac power to the fridge goes thru the EMS which could be cutting off the voltage to the refrig due to not enough amps available or itself could be faulty. The PowerLine display does show "Refrigerator" ON?

Good luck,
Bill

Marinelender · 12-15-2010, 12:46 PM

Thanks for all your replies. I checked the receptacle by unplugging the fridge, plugging in an extension cord and testing that with a meter...120V, no problem. Then I replaced the 5 AMP fuse. I also cleaned all of the connections to the circuit board and made sure they were tight. Also confirmed that the PowerLine was reporting AC to the fridge. Powered the fridge up, tried for AC operation, still get the "no ac" message. Worked through the Service Manual and I'm at the point where they suggest replacing the circuit board. Before I spend the $ any more ideas? Is there a way to test the board? I called Norcold and they were very nice but just want to sell me TWO boards and are telling me to have the work done by a professional. Frankly, most of the work I've had done by "professionals" so far has been disgraceful. Any reason I shouldn't be able to do this by myself? Thanks in advance

Gary - K7GLD · 12-15-2010, 01:00 PM

If you are comfortable with a common test meter, as it appears, and can isolate the 2 110 volt leads going to the refrigerator heating element, check them for continuity - if there IS continuity, proceed on to other tests - if there's NO continuity, game over!

Duner · 12-15-2010, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Marinelender

....Worked through the Service Manual and I'm at the point where they suggest replacing the circuit board. Before I spend the $ any more ideas? Is there a way to test the board? I called Norcold and they were very nice but just want to sell me TWO boards and are telling me to have the work done by a professional. Frankly, most of the work I've had done by "professionals" so far has been disgraceful. Any reason I shouldn't be able to do this by myself? Thanks in advance

The service guy that just did my Norcold hi-temp recall, said he keeps all the boards on hand because swapping out is the only practical way to know if that fixes the problem....when all else checks out ok.

Maybe allow a few more days for other forum members to suggest something else before you bite the bullet on the circuit board replacement.

"007" · 12-15-2010, 02:53 PM

You may have one of your electric elements gone bad. The PDF has instructions how to measure for ohm readings. Disconnect 4 leads off board and read them.
I had one bad element that would trip a GFI outlet when plugged into house or using Gen. Wouldn't trip surge protector go figure.

Marinelender · 01-10-2011, 06:33 PM

Well guys, here's where I am. I replaced the circuit board...made sure all the connections were clean...also made sure they were correct by verifying them on the schematic. Then I bought a multi-meter and checked the resistance on the two heating elements...they check out, each showing about 60 ohms resistance. I'm stumped. Still runs fine on propane but all I get when I try to go to shore power is the same "no ac". Anybody got any ideas?........................Jim

hometool · 01-10-2011, 07:27 PM

hi i do not know alot about norcold units but i spent 30yrs diagnosing and repairing problems on house applyances i think i would put the fridg in ac and check for 110v to the heators if you do not have 110v at the heators work back folowing the path the power goes through which shoul be fairly simple the power comes from the outlet through the relay on the ckt board and on to the heating elements. you also could try making up a jumper cord to bring 110v direct to the heating elements if it cools that way you will have narrowed it down to wiring or relay on the board.might not bethe relay itself but tomething in the ckt that operates it hope this helps lee

Marinelender · 02-19-2011, 03:20 PM

Thanks everyone....I found the problem and it offers a lesson to us all. Before I started checking the circuit board I marked all the wires and even took a picture so I would know where everything went. After replacing the circuit board and the fridge still would not work on AC I walked away from the problem for awhile. Recently I had a mobile tech look at the problem...he discovered that someone had unplugged the 120 service from the board, pushed the wires back in the wall, and miswired the board....and I just repeated the error when I installed the new board. Dummy! Dummy with an extra ($129) circuit board for his fridge!