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Old 09-02-2008, 04:43 PM   #21
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Trek-Cyclist:
I used Mobile 1 and passed/used a quart every 3,000 miles, now I use another brand of Synthetic and only use .25 to .50 every 3,000 miles. Both were 10W30 weight, all highway and no cold weather starts.
The other brand stays cleaner longer. the Mobil 1 was almost black in 2,000 miles, even with a wix 1060 filter.. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I think most of us experienced oil consumption such as you,until we went 15 or 20 thousand miles and then that big ole 8.1 went on the wagon with a marked reduction in appetite that was not related to "an other brand" of oil.In the old days,oil that stayed clear seemed to mean something (non-detergent oil) but today,clean oil is meaningless.
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Old 09-03-2008, 11:41 AM   #22
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Sorry, I disagree I had over 20,000 miles when I tried the Mobil 1 Full Syn 10W30.

Cleaner oil for me means the FILTER is doing its job as advertised.
Like my last post I referred to using the NAPA Gold 1060. Now, I have installed the M1-302 just to see if there is a difference. If not I'll buy whichever one is cheaper in the future.
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Old 09-03-2008, 01:27 PM   #23
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Don't want to start a war, but Workhorse now prefers 5W-30 oil. See page 45 Workhorse Users Guide. Say 10W-30 can be used if temp is above 0.
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Old 09-03-2008, 03:05 PM   #24
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I only stay where the outside temp is always above 40 degrees in the winter.
What WAR? 5W30 has always been recommended below certain temps.. or if you can't decide what to use the default is 5W30..Dino 3 months/3,000 miles..
After 3 years/36,000 miles you can put gear lube and STP in it if you want...
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Old 09-04-2008, 02:05 AM   #25
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Any war.
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Old 09-04-2008, 03:38 PM   #26
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Well I never change my oil. I use Amsoil Series 3000 sythetic with an Amsoil Bypass filter. I test the oil every year and it comes back in the good range. I change the factory filter and bypass filter every year and add oil as needed. We run this setup on our Cummins pickups also. Have 310,000 miles on one with oil in it for 295,000. Also 1999 Ford Dumps with 8.3 Cummins now have 400,000 plus but with the we use Puradyne bypass filters and Deloo 400 non sythetic.
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Old 09-05-2008, 09:39 PM   #27
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Switched my old Pace Arrow/Ford 7.5L and tranny both to Mobil 1 after 30K+, specifically to counter the heat buildup climbing long grades on dino oil. Huge improvement.

I know that nothing kills trannies like heat, and the whole point was to avoid it. Virtually no difference in oil consumption between the two, and none of the "syn-drome" problems you hear about. Also switched my Grand Marquis at 49K, will probably change out the Saturn toad also.

If it's good enough for Corvettes, USAF jets, and NASCAR, who am I to argue?
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Old 09-14-2008, 09:17 AM   #28
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by cmolling:
steelhead_bluesman:

Originally Mobil 1 suggested waiting at least 5 or 6,000 miles to break in an engine or else the lack of friction would make it hard to get rings properly seated, etc. Now I understand that, at least as of several years ago, Chevy Corvettes come from the factory with Mobil 1 so I suspect there is no longer major concern about minimum mileage to switch over.

The same is not true when dealing with high mileage vehicles. The cleaning action of Mobil 1 could cause problems with an older engine if there is a lot of wear and a lot of carbon and sludge buildup. Once the engine is cleaned up, due to the mileage and wear there could be a problem with a lack of compression.

Chuck </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Thanks for the info, Chuck
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