Won't Start - 2017 View 24V

Catawampus34 · 01-27-2019, 07:41 AM

Super cold here (about 15 below zero). Went to start rig yesterday and had to use the battery boost feature, Started and ran fine. Drove for about a 1/2 hour. Parked rig and loaded up to get out early today and it won't start,even with the battery boost feature initiated. Pulled up car to jump start off my vehicle and rig still won't turn over, doesn't even click. Lights and all accessories turn on fairly bright. Sometimes when I turn key on to try and start, the lights blink on and off. Thinking I might try new battery if rig won't start. Any other ideas? Any suggestions appreciated and thanks in advance.

WinnieView · 01-27-2019, 07:49 AM

Sounds like you need a new chassis battery. Ours is original, but we have heard even Costco has the correct replacement.
Another thing you might try is starting the generator and using the battery boost while it's running. At least that might get you to the battery store.

Catawampus34 · 01-27-2019, 09:22 AM

Thanks for the quick response. Sadly, just replaced the chassis battery and unit still doesn't start. Lights turn on, everything looks good, no clicks or anything. No response from the engine. Doesn't turn over at all.

WinnieView · 01-27-2019, 09:30 AM

With ours we always wait until the chime stops before turning the key to Start.
There is a 200 amp fuse link connected to our chassis battery. Do you have a volt meter to test the output of the battery?

Tucsontoy · 01-27-2019, 11:36 AM

My View has a large static draw on the battery. It went through two batteries in the first 6 months. Had to learn the issues quickly because at over $300 a pop for those big AGM's I installed a solution. Installed a "Trk-L-Start." Those batteries go dead once they just do not come back from the dead. If you have power where you store your rig you can keep a small battery buddy on it.

Catawampus34 · 01-29-2019, 07:42 AM

Well - we finally figured it out. First issue was a dead battery so I replaced that. After replacing battery I didn’t want to put the whole floor and panels back together and I had a bunch of tools on the drivers seat, so I was just turning the key without my foot on the brake. After 2 hours of being puzzled, I decided to attempt to put the unit into neutral but before I did that, I sat down on part of the seat and put my foot on the brake and tried it one more time and she started just fine. Sort of a combo problem and Newbie mistake. Make sure you have your foot on the brake!! Duh!! sure appreciate all the help and at least I know how to change the chassis battery now!!

bamaboy473 · 02-03-2019, 07:13 PM

Hate that you had your education while in sub-zero conditions, but glad it's over!!

AlanO · 02-03-2019, 07:20 PM

Leaving all this to guess work is for sure the wrong approach. A simple load test on the battery and starter draw test will give answers without the guesses and solve the problem.

Catawampus34 · 02-04-2019, 09:55 AM

Alan O - I couldn't agree more. There was something else causing the non-starting problem. You do not need your foot on the brake for the engine to turn over. I have tried to replicate the issue but have not been able to. Our rig has started perfectly since then without issue (although I still have a bit of stress when I turn the key!!)

I know for a fact that our battery was dead to begin with. However, once I put the new batter in and checked the charge, we had over 12 volts available. I then put a charger on the new chassis battery for about an hour and then it started right up. No issue whatsoever. I would have thought that if the new battery was slightly low, the engine may still turn over, possibly slow and not enough to start, but should still turn.

This is what happened the day before when we were uncovering the unit and packing and took it for a test drive. I went to start the unit, the chassis battery turned the engine over but not enough to start. I pushed in the boost option and she started just fine (rig was plugged in). We drove it for a 1/2 hour and parked her in the driveway. Only thing I didn't do at this point was plug her back in, which would have kept the coach batteries charged. I think the extremely cold weather made all the batteries too weak. Coach batteries only registered about 9 volts in the morning and the chassis battery was dead. I'll continue to search and hopefully find the answer. Or, hopefully it will never show it's ugly face again.

WinnieView · 02-04-2019, 10:15 AM

We deal with the opposite here in AZ. The extremely hot temperatures each summer will surely let you know when it's time to replace your starting battery.

We weren't sure you were on the right track when you mentioned earlier that you had to have your foot on the brake pedal to start the engine. Ours does not require it and never has.
What we do notice is if we don't wait a few seconds (most times) or as we usually do wait until the chiming stops she doesn't want to start, as if there's no signal given.

Another thought is the with all the electronics and computers for the MB diesel and related systems that if the ECU (or whatever) doesn't detect the proper voltage, minus the expected draw from the starter, she's not going to proceed.
EDIT: On a related note (thought) just as MB says to wait a period of time after turning off the key before disconnecting the negative battery post by the gas pedal for all electronics to power down, the same could be said about turning the key to start.

notbusdrvr · 02-04-2019, 10:38 AM

I also have a '17 view. On ours, if the chassis voltage is too low, turning the key results no action at all. It does not do the typical car slow turn and grind, it simply does not respond. I have taken to disconnecting the chassis lead above the accelerator pedal in cold weather to eliminate the sacrificial draw. Doing that has worked for us every time, even with several days below zero.

Catawampus34 · 02-04-2019, 10:51 AM

Thanks all for the great input and suggestions. Very very helpful and appreciated.